The NS250 is similar to the NS400 in many respects, so the only advice I can offer is based on the 400
anyoldiron wrote:1 how much fork oil in each fork
Left - 348cm3
Right - 332cm3
Fork level - 120mm from the top of the tube (with the fork compressed - spring removed)
Oil type - ATF - Automatic transmission fluid
anyoldiron wrote:2, how do you check the 2 stroke oil pump adjustment? lts chucking a fair bit of oil, but i think that has got a lot to do with the PO, of years just started it up and rode it to the end of the block and back
The 400 oil pump us on the bottom crankcase between the exhausts for cylinders 1 & 3. At full throttle, a V on the pump control lever lines up with a mark on the crank case. The pump itself is non adjustable.
anyoldiron wrote:3, how do you service the ATAC valve? l think its working, it pulls clean up to the red, and probably beyond,. When i took the ATAC valve cover off and before i cleaned it there is a ring of ''clean metal' where the butterfly valve would sit when fully closed, so im guessing it is working, i cleaned out all the crud with WD40 and a .22 barrel brush. Are there any points to lube in the system?
If you managed to get the covers off, you've done well as the bolts generally shear in the valve body. As you say, the clean line suggests they are working. I'd be tempted to remove the complete unit and give it a good soak in degreaser or a soda solution (keep an eye on the external painted surface when using caustic solutions), followed by a clean. Again, based on the 400, the butterflies are operated via solenoid. The ATAC valves are open below 7500rpm and closed above. The RS and CR engines had crank driven ATAC. I'm guessing yours is the same as the 400 and if so, remove the linkage cover and solenoid. Then check for free movement of the linkage. The manual recommends Molybdenum disulfide grease for the linkage and rocker arm shaft[/quote]
HTH
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If it ain't broke, fix it until it is.