Reinstall the shaft by sliding into the body until the seal head is just past the circlip groove and install the circlip and tap the dust cap back into place. Push the shaft all the way into the body and I then clamp it in the vice with the hose hole at the top.

20190308_122643 by Paul Goat, on Flickr

I use a small funnel and slowly start pouring shock oil in, I normally fill the funnel. You will see air bubble out of the oil and the oil level drop just keep topping the funnel up until you get no more air bubbles.

20190308_122804 by Paul Goat, on Flickr

When the air bubbles stop pull the shaft out a small amount, you will see more air bubble out. Keep topping the oil and pulling the shaft out a little bit at a time until it is fully extended. Now I install the hose to the shock body and submerge the end of the hose in a pot of shock oil like this.

20190308_124208 by Paul Goat, on Flickr

Then pump the shaft in and out you will see air bubble out of the submerged hose, keeping pumping until you no longer see any air bubbles and the damping feels smooth and consistent.

Next install the reservoir with top cap installed and hold the reservoir in the vice like this.

20190308_142837 by Paul Goat, on Flickr

I fill the reservoir about halfway and once again pump the shock shaft in and out until you get no more air bubbles. Then fill the reservoir to the top with oil and carefully push the bladder in until it the end cap is just past the circlip groove and install the circlip.

20190308_143345 by Paul Goat, on Flickr

I now use compressed air to inflate the bladder enough to seat the end cap against the circlip. I will charge it with nitrogen at a later date. I used a 86 CR250 workshop manual as a guide for this rebuild as they have a remote reservoir shock and they suggest charging to 142 psi. Most shock rebuilds I have seen usually have a charge pressure aroun 140 to 150 psi.