philup_7@hotmail.com wrote:Hi Andy

Many thanks for the prompt reply very much appreciated I will go ahead and put one on order. It will be interesting to see how it goes and whether there are any problems like the clutch slipping when it shouldn't (more likely long term though I would have thought).

On the last point below do you think the proposal is a valid one?

'Lastly, is it a complete No No to move the RC Servo by hand? Reason being to see whether the max. rotation of the RC Servo (either way) matches the full rotation of the RC Valves, to make sure there will be some slack in the cables? Or does the RC Servo not fully roate that much?'

Phil

You can move the RC Valve by hand, but there really is no need to.

The RC Valve can, in theory, rotate in either direction indefinitely, and its position is controlled by the the RC Valve Control Unit (MC16 and MC18 Mk1*) and PGM on 89-96 models, so rotating it by hand proves very little.

There is a very fussy HRC method, but in reality, for 99% of use cases, setting the RC Valves as per the above instructions is more than adequate.

*Before anyone jumps down my throat, yes, the early Mk1 MC18 R2/4J uses an RC Valve Control Unit, and later R2/4Js have RC Valve control integrated into the PGM.

One caveat to setting as per the Service Manual is if you start mixing and matching parts. There are no rules if, for example, you're using R5/6K barrels on an R2/4J, or MC18 barrels on an MC28... I'm afraid you're on your own. The cables, RC Valve shapes, sweep etc. all vary year-by-year, so I'm afraid it's just a case of "suck it, and see"! Just err on the side of loose actuator cables rather than tight!
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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