tleighbell wrote:
Thanks Andy. Very informative as always. Based on your comment about mixing and matching parts from different years, does that make the HRC method of feeling the actual valve position in the exhaust port more realistic in your opinion? Or can the exhaust valve position be accurately inferred from the pulley position?

My bike is intended for track use only. Might i do just as well to just set the valve in the fully open position? I won't be spending much time between 2 and 3,000 RPM.

You absolutely want the RC Valve operational in my personal opinion. The RC Valve is very progressive; it doesn't just wind to fully open at a given RPM... in fact it's not even completely open until almost the redline in some instances.

If the motor is currently unassembled, I would open each RC Valve flap to the HRC specified position, then scribe the cable backplate/holder so once it's all reassembled, you can be sure where the fully open position is, and work from there. You can do it with the motor assembled "by feel" (or even the crude way matey showed on his video), but doing it with the barrels in your hand (with the heads off) gives you a much clearer view to get things back on.

As I said before, err on the side of loose cable tension to start with.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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