Work out how to hold the servo cables in place in order to keep the valves fully open..I came up with this...bicycle speedometer spoke magnets...
...so the pointers are aligned on the brackets....
Front
Rear
....fit the tank, put on the number plate,
refit most of the bodywork and go...
It ran OK. Just ok. It's all fine down in the bottom of the rev range and ticks over wonderfully at the lights, but it was not keen to go beyond 6,000 rpm unless I held it quarter throttle and let it climb up there....when...yes...the power would come on and almost lift the wheel...but I couldn't crack it open and expect it to accelerate or it would bog down and feel like it would just run on one cylinder.
I think there are a few reasons for this behaviour. (Note running fully stock air box with filter)
1- Fuel still has some oil in it. Made a 50:1 mix to be nice to the engine before the oil pump kicked in- which it did... so I added a gallon to the tank but there's still an element of oil in there.
2- As you know I'm running without the RC Servo which is on holiday in Japan- valves are fixed in fully open position which I think is when the pointers line up. Could it be that? Probably not helping.
3- To compensate running with these after market pipes...the Tyga's...I thought I should upjet the mains from standard of 130 & 132 to 135 & 138 because I didn't want it to run lean and risk a seize. Maybe that was not necessary. I have a feeling that's what it is- I have it too rich. I didn't do a specific plug chop but took out the plugs for a look see and - they aren't perfect- a bit rich- but I've seen worse. I should really run WFO for a moment and then do a chop- but the bike doesn't want to cooperate.
This is the jetting that was originally installed....130 up to 135 seems an odd jump but I couldn't find 134's or 136's.
Keihin TA20A
No.1
Main 130 (Now 135)
Slow 38
Needle BPD, Power Jet 70
No. 2
Main 132 (Now 138)
Slow 38S
Needle BPE, Power Jet 75
for example here's the selection available from Tyga...maybe they don't make 134's or 136's. Searching
4. It's also running pretty cool. That T2 Racing radiator https://t2-r.ocnk.net/product/497 seems bigger but the size is the same as the stock radiator in terms of length, width and thickness. The difference is the number of the radiator core 'stages' is increased to 31 compared to 25 for the stock radiator. Temperature guage indicates it to be at about 60-70ºC...which looks low on the dial.
It definitely got better throughout the run which must've been about 30miles.
FRONT (135 Main)
REAR (138 Main)
Conclusion: Before I do any more riding on it...
-wait for the RC Servo to come back.
-consider rejetting back to standard OR....take the top off the airfilter box just to see if it makes ANY difference. would be amazing if it did.
BEFORE
AFTER...and there's zero leaks.
