Andy wrote:Yeah, the lengths I would say you should go to on a GP bike!

The point is GP machinery is manufactured to much tighter tolerances, and if an NSR is going to be tuned to a similar degree, then it should be treated to the same level of setup.

I would say if your going to tune an NSR to this level, you might as well just go with a real GP bike. It will be easier in the end

Andy wrote:
The difference is going to be 0.25mm, as it doesn't matter how thick the O-rings are, the heads will still clamp flush to the barrels. Yes, base gaskets are available in 0.4mm, 0.5mm, and 0.6mm (and slight variations of each), but by the time you've bought all the base gaskets you can find just to find the one(s) with the odd 0.05mm, you may as well skim the base of the barrel to get it right or just stick with head gaskets!

You would be suprised at the variations (+ and -) you will find in a small hand full of base gaskets.

Now I have a good 30+ pile of base gaskets all measured and noted so I can quickly grab the one I need based on the piston I pull from stock. of course I (was) buy(ing) pistons 10 at a time. But when they doubled in price I stopped that practice

Andy wrote:
It's not like NSR heads really need to come off every 5 minutes, unless you're making 75hp of course! Even then, you'll be replacing rings (and pistons) so often there's still not much point in taking the heads themselves off.

It was designed into the RS, but not on the NSR. I just don't see the point personally, and think time and resources are better spent elsewhere, but each to their own.

Yep, I totally agree. If you want a GP bike, get the full benefits of owning one. When it comes to jetting changes, top end rebuilds, pulling body work, tank, etc.. you will find nothing can be done to a street bike to make it as easy as a GP bike is from stock.
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Charles Gallant