I changed the seals in my RVF400 forks the other week so if you come across any snags during the job i should be able to help you, Craig.

I re-filled mine with Ohlins 1310-01 oil. It apparently works better from cold and is more 'slippery' than rival fork oils, so i'm told anyway (its dear though). I measured 300ml per leg when i drained them to start with. Now, i found figures online that reckoned the standard fill capacity is 445ml per leg, but the fork had been performing fine on 300ml per leg so i re-filled again to that. Evidence of 300ml being a good fill level is that my suspension data logger (cable tie like Paul g's) shows i use about 80% of the fork's travel on the brakes at the moment. As i get faster i might end up braking harder and getting close to bottoming them out - at which time i'll try reducing the air gap in the forks by putting more oil in them to stiffen the forks up at the end of their stroke.

Other than that mine are standard - i'm still using the wire circlip things that stop the handle bars slipping down the forks. I found that the RVF triple clamps bring the front wheel closer into the bike than the standard NSR fork so i ended up with clearance problems with my engine! I was running the 300kit with standard plugs and caps originally and my racing wet tyres have a higher profile than my drys so under heavy braking the front tyre was touching the front plug cap! I've since started using an RS250 plug and cap (also very dear) on the front cylinder only which is much lower profile and no longer gets close enough to make contact with the tyre.

Besides that you just need to be setting the static sag. There'll be an article online describing how to do it im sure. Infact i'd imagine there'll be a youtube video on it!
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