First off , remove back casing of the PGM , it clips on and I found putting a small screwdriver into the two lower holes made it pop off fairly well.
Once in the culprit for the error is two transistor that overload and burn out , once I identified them I dug a trench around them by removing the soft Black sealant. Not a difficult job using a small craft knife, sharp pointed scissors and a small screwdriver. About 30mins worth of work should get you to this point. Be careful digging down though ! Although the track of the motherboard are underneath you do want to avoid damaging it as much as possible.
I actually don't think this unit had a problem and it was just unchecked
Oh well it's got the upgrade now 
You should find them burnt out looking or at least get a strong electrical smell.
With the transistors exposed gently rock them back and forth to break the legs on them. From there you can now rest the new unit on and solder them onto the remaining solder and leg on the board. I have used a self fluxing high grade Silver solder (I modify my amps, DVD players and Cd players from time to time) but any good quality solder should suffice.
Try soldering the centre leg 1st then either side , make sure you align the tranny's correctly - very simple as only one side is printed the other shows the exposed heat sink.
Once I had one done I then snapped the other off and got the 2nd one mounted.
Soldering tips:
Use a 30~45W soldering iron with a PC board fine tip on it. If you go higher Wattage there is a good chance of burning components or circuit board unless your really good at doing it.
Allow plenty time for the soldering iron to heat up, it is a solid tip so takes time to get to temp - I leave for 15mins (Unless you have a quick heat iron).
Place tip on the leg as near as possible to the old solder within a couple of seconds offer the solder down the leg toward the iron tip , as it heats up the flux will start to work and as it approaches the tip will melt and be drawn toward the old solder and make the bond. This all occurs in under a second or two.
With the tip at temp' this is about the time scale your looking to do the job in 4~5 sec's.
Give the component time to cool before going onto the next leg - soldering is about good connections and not speed so don't be in a rush to complete.
Finishing up:
Before sealing your work up with silicone , RTV or Black goo go test your unit on the bike and see if it now cycles when you power it up. All well then fill it up and replace back cover - I can't show you this bit as i am leaving it open for the new user to test then fill.
If it is not working most likely one or more of the legs hasn't made a good contact with original - check through them by trying to lift them away from the solder one at a time (small screwdriver)
Next likely is you've cooked the new components by taking too long to bond them on.
You may have cracked the circuit board by being heavy handed while digging the trench.
It has another underlaying fault yet to be identified.
Bottom line , if your unit isn't working to start with you haven't much to loose by trying and everything to gain if you make a successful repair.
If like this unit there wasn't a problem then upgrading to these Toshiba transistors should stop the error ever occurring - they can handle the load better when your Valves jamb which gives you time to service them and free them up again. DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK on a working unit.
Hope this has been of help and encourages a few of you to give it a try. If you can "spanner" on your bike you should be able to do this - I have no formal training in electronics or soldering and have successfully fully modded my DVD player , CD Player (Huge forum thread showing this) and amps.
Equip yourself with the right tools and it is pretty straight forward. Don't know what 90% of The things I removed, replaced or upgraded do but I can do it !
Good luck, MM!
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