dave robbo wrote:
And now for the hard question, How to test the Air solenoids, when I got the bike 5 years ago I took it to the bike shop cause it ran like crap after 6000rpm. After a good carb clean and them fiddling around with the jets they told me the Air solenoids were not working, they disconnected the X piece and it ran pretty good and reved out all the way with no problems but started to loose power up top after a few weeks.
Do the air solenoids get power to them at a certain rev range or do they always have power to them that switches off at a certain rev range?? If so I can just check them with a multimeter when the bike is running right? also I don't have the original hoses for the air correction circuit does the diameter and length of the hoses matter if so could someone tell me the inside diameter of the hoses??

The short answer is there is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock air correction setup, and to do any better, you will need the full HRC carb kit, and plenty of setup time/dyno runs. Even then, the HRC kit is only of use if you have a modified setup. It will do nothing for a stock bike.

The air correction solenoids switch on and off depending on throttle position, gear position, and RPM, controlled by the pre-programmed "maps" in the PGM. It's a rather refined system, and [generally] works very well. It is possible for the solenoids to fail, but rare. Also possible the PGM is faulty, but unlikely.

Disconnecting the X-piece is an awful bodge, and will have most likely made the motor run very lean at the top-end, and there is every possibility that caused detonation. Detonation generally leads to seizure. A partial seizure could be the cause of the lost power. The least you can do it pull the exhausts off and have a look up the ports at the pistons, but I'd recommend pulling the barrels off, for a closer inspection. (Leave the heads fitted, to save replacing expensive gaskets if all turns out to be in good condition.)
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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