You have to remove the airbox to access the carbs. If you go with adjustable needles, you be able to access those from the tops, but getting to the jets from the bottom of the carbs will require removal. It doesn't take a tremendous amount of time, but it will definitely be more work than your 'crosser.
Derestricting for the MC21 is the wiring splice/mod.
Fiche is available on this site. However, most parts are no longer available. If fairing fasteners are, let us know.
Pipes? There are a handful of ones with good reputations and pretty comparable performance. I have Tyga simply because most of the others are more difficult to source. I will say that the welds on my chambers are absolutely pornographic.