Hi there

I've got an Mc16 and got the original airbox on. I'm looking to put on a bigger filter, like I cone filter. Want to get a better sound on the filter.

I'm planning to drop the airbox and put on one big cone filter. Will this have an negative effect on the bike or maby increase the possibility of ceasing the motor. While I have an direct airflow to both carbs and do the jets of the bike need to be changed.

Any help on this topic will be good

Thanks


Last edited by xXx on Sat Sep 10, 2005 10:10 pm; edited 1 time in total

I think Andy is best placed to talk about 'pod' filters on NSR's.
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i ru pod filters on mine for a while and it was toooooo loud. needed to wear ear plugs on long rides.
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Dave Ett wrote:
I think Andy is best placed to talk about 'pod' filters on NSR's.

I think he will be once his crank seals are done!

StephenRC45, MATT@TYGA, and Bill Limb are better qualified to babble on about them as they have all very successfully run foam pods on NSRs.

On the recent dyno runs, we found it was very important to have the correct size filters. The size I was previously running were too short, and killing the revs at 12,000rpm stone dead. Going to a filter 25mm longer (same diameter) gave me at least 500rpm over rev and decreased the flat spot low down.

Like I say, once the crank seals are done, I am confident the whole rev-range can be cleared up. All three of the bikes owned buy the guys above (2 x MC21 and 1 x MC21/300) carburete perfectly with pods.
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yup, Andys right. Both my MC21 race bike, my 250 18 and the 18 as a 300 all ran pods and all ran well once rejetted to suit.

However they were only used as i didnt have the HRC air box. In the perfect world i would always use an air box over pods. The large volume of still air makes carb set up much easyer with an air box.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Thanks for the info. Any more info are still more than welcome. You can never know to much.

The other thing is. I want to know if it's necessary to change your jets if you want to put on an other air filter. And to what jet sizes do I need to go. How can I determent it.

Thanks

Yes you will have to rejet. Weather the stock needles will be any good with pods is another thing, we have always used the HRC kit.

You can tell how its running if...

it seizes, your lean.. rebuild and go bigger,

it does 2mpg, your rich... go smaller and move back to step one.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

That's bad

I don't actually want to seize the motor you know. But thanks for the info. When you put on a pod, it is actually better to put the bike on a dyno isn't it

In South Africa the guys don't want to put a 2stroke bike on the dyno It's so stupid But then it will actually be best to stay away from the filter if I'm not quite sure what to do hey

If your not confidant in jetting it yourself and no dynos will run it then i would stick with the stock set up. No one can tell you what jets you need to run as every bike is so very different.

If you really want to fit pods, try going up some stupid amount of jet sizes and work your way down by doing plug chops. Maybe go talk to someone who races MX in SA, they will be able to give you a little advice if the dyno place wont help. You can also show them your plugs.

As with all this stuff.... dont do what i do and go weaker. Go richer!

At the end of the day if the bike feels right it normaly is. Dynos are good but what sometimes looks good on a graph can be crap on the road and the oposite counts too.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Thanks alot for the info.

I'll think i'll rather stick to my stock airbox then. I don't actually want to ceaze the motor you now.

Just to throw my 2 pence in;

My '28 was rebuilt recently and running an open airbox (i.e. no lid and some wire holding the filter in place). After Stephen had a little play with the needle it was fine, would take a wide open throttle right from just about tickover to the red line and gave 60.7bhp. Slightly less clean mid throttle but still OK. Real loud induction roar too, probably just like your after.

But on the same day I saw Steve's '18 drop about 2/3rds of a bhp (not much I know, but a drop) and lose throughout the rev range by having another 2 holes put in the airbox lid, thus we can conclude that Steve's setup benefits from some level of restriction on the airflow, so maybe mine would too? Time constraints on the day meant I never got to try it so I did this afternoon, the lid I had lying around already had 2 little holes in which I enlarged to about 1" each before fitting.
What a difference, a bit better at full throttle but part throttle is just transformed, you can potter around town with tiny throttle openings and 3000 or so revs perfectly (just as Honda intended I suppose, I've never run it on normal jets, pipes, card etc.).
Add to that the fact it's now quiet enough to do quiet trackdays and not annoy monkey's neighbours too much when if I leave his place late (or the police) and I fail to see the drawback.
Obviously I plug chopped it (I pulled in the same place as I seized it last time) and it's still running a bit on the rich side so thats nice.

I'm not saying it'll work for you as I also saw Andy's bike make more power with no filters than with the pods, I'm just saying you've got to try for yourself.
Also any mod to make a better sound is a bit dodgy in my book, surely you modify to improve the perfromance and that in turn makes it sound right?

But putting the lid back on has made my bike sound a bit like a scooter
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