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pipe coatings???


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JohnBlaze

 
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pipe coatings???

Fri Sep 16, 2005 11:26 pm » Post: #1 » Download Post

Hey all, got a question about coating pipes. I got me a set of JHA 500v pipes and they are rusted to hell. i did the naval jelly thing but now how do you keep it form rusting again? Any tips eh? I'm contemplating getting them jet hot coated. Let the wisdom come!
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Don
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Sat Sep 17, 2005 1:56 am » Post: #2 » Download Post

I have some older Tyga mild steel pipes that also needed coating when I got them. I didn't have the time or money so I got by cheap. I used Rustoleum Hammer Finish spray paint. I was told it wouldn't work but I've gone 2 years with the stuff on there and they still look good. The only place the paint came off or melted was right at the cylinders.
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Steve C
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Sat Sep 17, 2005 2:19 am » Post: #3 » Download Post

The coatings look good. But they can be a pain if you ever need to get the pipes welded if they crack. I don't know what is in jet hot. I had a pipe coated and the coating had aluminum in it when the pipe cracked, it couldn't be welded. Just use Very high heat spray paint.
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fstnsr

 
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Sat Sep 17, 2005 2:26 am » Post: #4 » Download Post

i had my set of jha's chromed and they came out great. they were rusting to. not sure about the welding thing but i hope i dont need welding.
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DMB

 
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Sat Sep 17, 2005 2:54 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

Hi John, I have used Barbeque Paint in the past on an old exhaust and it works a treat. This stuff was purchased from B+Q ( a handy man store) in the UK. It comes in a spray tin and is used to repaint a well used metal barbeque set. This paint is very high temp specific stuff and is long lasting. It is also much cheaper than the cost of an exhaust specific ( car spares) paint... Smile
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rgvsean

 
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Sat Sep 17, 2005 5:33 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

I discovered a good coating at work. It is called SUNCORITE. the metal must be heated to around 40c before apllication and it bonds on. There are many different types. We had to find a high temp type. It's very easy to apply and is highly resistant to salt. I think it's an ideal coating but as it's for industry I am not sure if you could find it in small quantities.

The best alternative would be the BBQ paint mentioned above.

I use stainless pipes to be honest, must less hassle!
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Steve C
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Sat Sep 17, 2005 7:43 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

I would use high heat paint for motors. I have a can that is good up to 1200 degrees. The best part is if you need to touch it up just spray on some more Very Happy
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Sun Sep 18, 2005 8:33 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

What's "Naval Jelly"? Shocked
Is that like, pureed grey fluff that you always find in there? Smile
[No seriously - I'm yet to find something that takes the rust off and leaves a non-oxidised finish]
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Matt@TYGA
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Mon Sep 19, 2005 3:25 am » Post: #9 » Download Post

I flatly refuse to do anything by the book, so when it comes to rust removal I'm a real cheapskate (as with most things).

Naval Jelly is the ok, and there's a host of other products available, but all I do is pop into the lav and grab the pot pourri scented Vixol 'Pink', slip on my rubber gloves and safety specs and splash it all over. Use a sacrificial sponge and watch the rust simply dissolve. Flush this all off with some warm soapy water and then rinse that off. Dry with a rag and then oil immediately as it'll rust again before you know it. this'll leave a flat, not so sexy finish, but if you're painting then so what. Obviously you'll need to get the oil off before painting.

The active ingredient in the toilet cleaner is hydrochloric acid at 15%, so obvious it's not the safest way to do it, and it stinks so do it outside.

This is also the same way that I treat my old nuts and bolts before I send them off to the zinc plating shop. They come back looking like new.
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Matt@TYGA
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Mon Sep 19, 2005 3:27 am » Post: #10 » Download Post

Oh, and by the way. I don't recommend this method in the slightest, but it's what I 'might' do if the situation arose....allegedly.
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Matt@TYGA
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Mon Sep 19, 2005 3:30 am » Post: #11 » Download Post

One more thing, it'll strip the zinc off all your shiny bolts as quick as that, so don't use it for anything other than stripping rust, zinc, anodizing, etc etc....

Oven cleaner might also work. never tried. Now, where's that Eeeeeeezy Off?
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TW

 
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Mon Sep 19, 2005 11:20 am » Post: #12 » Download Post

What is the UK equivelant of Vixol ?, i have just tried to do a google UK specific search for it without any success , is it a Thailand only product, i have a load of c**p i want to zinc plate
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nsrmonkey

 
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Mon Sep 19, 2005 11:58 am » Post: #13 » Download Post

go and have a mooch around your local wilcos and buy a drain cleaner with hydrochloric acid it it, most of them contain it.
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Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:05 pm » Post: #14 » Download Post

As monkey says, it should be easy to find something similar. Just read the labels and if it's got something nasty (useful) in it then it'll probably work.

I'm sure you could just get hydrochloric acid if you wanted, but it's not a good juice to have lying around. Paul freaked out when I turned up with it concentrated.

It's also used to clean masonry, oh and it'll clean up the aluminium smeared on siezed NSR cylinders. It'll also dissolve the rest of the cylinder if you just splash it on.
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nsrmonkey

 
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Mon Sep 19, 2005 1:10 pm » Post: #15 » Download Post

go to B+Q and buy some brick acid, that'll do it Laughing
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