Looks like the SE i had for sale is not going. The chap who bought it is being a pain in the arse.......SO im seriously thinking of nicking the goodies of it for my R and flogging the rest as parts, one of the hardest jobs i can see is converting my R wet clutch to a dry clutch. Firstly CAN IT BE DONE BY SOMEONE LIKE ME....(I have an understanding but im no mechanic) whats required anyone done it? can the engine stay in the bike? is it just the clutch and engine case or dose the gearbox need to come apart? If anyone can help or give adivse (like dont bother, or yeah its straight forward) please let me know, Ill know for sure tonight if the SE is going if not you chaps will get first dibs on bits. well whats left LOL

Thanks

why dont you keep the SE and get rid of the R.....
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MC21SP - Roth-tax
CBR400 - track
MC21R - sold
MC21SP - sold

one simple reason, It has NO history, although it sounds nice and runs well, MY r has had a new crank in the last 4000km's and a top end rebuild around 6000kms ago, the se has zip, apart from someones word its been done, top end that is....... Andy did my crank, and i think he supplied parts to do the top end. the R really motors and its a nice bike, the SE has had a smack all be it small, and i just dont wana sell a bike i have a complete history for and now trust. Then take up an se that has nought! it may pay off but then it may cost me sh*t loads of cash, i was gona keep it as a hack and standard bike, but when it was delivered it was in need of tlc, if you saw the yellow one on ebay it was that one. I can take the suspension, and the cluth if its possiable, and sell the rest. I could put all my old r bits on and repair her, but im not sure as yet, i wana see how easy it is to install a dry clutch. Parts are hard enough to find for 21's, and if i was to split her it would be good to know i had spare barrels, heads, crank etc etc . i wouldnt get my £800 back but id have spares and new suspension.

you would be wise to take the suspension off it is far better than the R stuff ( i speak from experiance) get them both rebuilt by someone like K-tech and you are laughing.

i dont know exactly how to do the clutch conversion but i do know that it will require the gearbox and sundries from the SE.

Stephen RC45 has done this conversion on his 18......and on his drivewaay to i would imagine.
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MC21SP - Roth-tax
CBR400 - track
MC21R - sold
MC21SP - sold

yeah for sure, and like i say i can straighten the se with bits frm my r, i have a complete body and subframe etc etc etc comming from tyga, and i already have the zorst's to fix the slightly bent one and scuffed can... i dont know well see, but if the clutch is a big job ill keep with the wet one, i found the se dry clutch very smooth which was nice cause mine is very jumpy and needs lots of revs to get going but once under way, its like a fecking missile.

If you've got the complete SE motor, then fitting the dry clutch to the R is a breeze.

You can get an idea from the engine rebuild documented on this site.

The only thing you'll have to remove from the left side of the engine will be the gear shift linkage and the front sprocket.

Need to drain both oil and water too.

Keep an eye on things inside the engine. there's a washer on the crankcase side of the water pump gear for example that likes to fall off and run into hiding under the bench.

If you've got a parts book (or just look at the parts section on this site) you'll get a good idea of all the bits and where they go.

Other things to pay close attention to is the countershaft seal when you're refitting the gearbox and sliding the countershaft through the seal (located behind the sprocket) because the splines on the gear shaft can catch the spring, or the lips of the seal and damage it. Just take care, keep and eye to it and don't rush it. grease all the seals to help it slide together.

Another thing is the gear selector return spring. This is on the inside of the transmission cassette plate and needs to be hooked up into position before sliding the tranny plate home or it'll get caught between the tranny plate and the cases. You can then cause damage if you don't notice and just bolt the plate up.

Basically, everything you take off the SE motor to get the gearbox out will then go onto the R motor.

Hang on, didn't see in your post if both engines are 21's or 28's. If they're both the same, either 21 or both 28 then no problem, but if one's a 21 and the other's a 28 then you'll have to remove the primary drive gear as well as this is different between 21 and 28.

There's nothing too tricky involved and the swap can be done in an afternoon, even for the first time.

You'll probably need a new clutch cover gasket though as this'll more than likely tear when you pull the cover off, especially if it hasn't been apart in a while. Grease up the new gasket and it'll be easy to remove next time.

Cheers Matt Seems errrrr easy i think ill review the docs on this site, they are both 21's do i need to take the negine out for this?

Cheers

the whole job can be done with the engine in situ.

Even the crank can be changed without pulling the mota out.

All you need to remove is the fairing, and front sprocket. Drain the oil and water and away you go. Oh yeah, and the clutch cable has to some off.

Matt,

reading throu the workshop and parts am i correct to say that the gear box (complete) from the se comes out and goes into the R? so im taking all the clutch bits off an then sliding the gearbox out....? or am i being a dick head, if im right i think ive got it if not im gona get someone else to do it LOL sorry for being a dumb arse and thanks for your help... ps did paul speak to you about my order, he wasnt sure if i had everything to do the front head conversion.... Cheers

I think you've got the suss of it.

Basically, everything you take off the SE will then go back on the R

Another quick check please MAtt Andy... the workshop shows 2 white marks that need to line up for balance (or make yer own it says) and when reinstalled they line back up.. But if im installing a diffrent G box altogether from the SE what do i line up how do i make sure its ballance as the marks will be in diffrent places, im sure theres an easy answer, Oh and once ive got all the clutch and secondary drive gear off is there bolts to undo to finaly remove the box, no mention in the workshop bit.... Im planning on doing this in November (well start with removal of the se box first) so ill take pictures but untill then the above info if you have it please.