From my years as mechanic on a RS250, I remember having a separate switch to fake the CDI-operation and control the RC-motor from min to max position. From that experience, I know how critical it comes with these valves.
Anybody used anything like this on a NSR? Or perhaps even built one? _________________ I have a Yamaha LC and a Honda MC21. Guess which is always in bits??
Andy wrote:
Instructions on setting the RC Valves can be found in the Main Site.
Speaking of which can I sudgest a change?
Te guide states reving to 10,000 rpm to get the valves to open to allow measurment.
Honda being as good as they are made the valves open between 2500 and 3000 rpm removing the need to rev to 10k. _________________ If you dont like the way that i ride.....Stop trying to keep up!!!!!
lol, you wanna try setting them on mine Mick, before I got the checker box for the F3 you had to hold it at over 12k before the valve was fully open.. oh how the locals love me. _________________ If I have to take the carbs off once more...
You think the locals like you. I had a lad come from over the road complaining I was revving the bike up at 9 o'clock on a saturday morning.
he wasnt far off getting a spanner wrapped round his head. (this was while I was trying to diagnose my misfire so wasnt best pleased to start with.) _________________ If you dont like the way that i ride.....Stop trying to keep up!!!!!
Thanks for posts guys. Off course, I did read the instruction in the tuning section dealing with setting the RC-valve over the kill-switch and TPS connector, but its hard to imagen that it comes anywhere close to as reliable as physically maxing the RC-motor out full open and checking and fine-tuning the full open position of valves physically.
I remember very clearly, that every time you took the cylinder off (and back on offcourse) , you had to re-adjust the cables. _________________ I have a Yamaha LC and a Honda MC21. Guess which is always in bits??
Uncouple the TPS and turn the ign on. Then using the holes in the RC valve back plate and pully aline them using the cables. Plug the TPS back in and way you go.
Second.
Start the engine with the petrol tank removed. Once the engine is warm blip it over 4k. Watch the RC valve servo and mark on the body the highest point the pully on the servo goes to.
Turn the engine off, move the pully wheel on the servo to line up with the mark you just made. Removed the exhausts and adjust the cables so the rc valves are flush with the top of the exhast port (just little recessed (.2mm) if you follow HRC). _________________ If I have to take the carbs off once more...
It's a funny old world. your neighbours don't like you revving up at 9am on a Sat morning. Last night at 11.30pm Paul and I were still in my workshop at home drilling, sawing, filing and generally making lots of noise. We were thinking about stopping 'cos it was getting late, so we started packing the tools up, only to hear matey across the way going at it with the hammer drill. Oh well, this is Thailand after all!
No wonder nobody's complained about me revving up the Stoner replica in the house
On the RC valve subject. The only 'proper' way to do it is to pull the pipes off first and make sure that you can mark the position of the valves at their fully open position. Then when you're doing the rev up test you can plainly see what's going on. Then you can fine tune it on the dyno, like Steve does 'cos he's got one in his kitchen.
The F3 ingition I'm running on the 300 goes fully open at 2~3000rpm, so it's a breeze to set up. The NF5 PGMII doesn't have this option and needs the valve checker.
By the way Steve, I presume from your post that you got the checker working?
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