Just in the process of sorting out the rvf400 frontend onto my MC21. I am finding that the lower triple is connecting with the rad cap resulting in a very restricted right turn. Is this an issue on the street? WHat are my alternatives to getting around it.
It is an issue for one reason alone... you will be used to having full lock, and will find that making a tight turn (into your driveway, for example), can suddenly become a rather awkward manoeuvre!
You get used to it... apparently! Having ridden my MC21 for 12 years with RWU forks, the lack of steering lock was a bit hard to get accustomed to though!
My "lock-stop" is a length of threaded bar through one of the holes in the instrument cluster/front fairing stay, with a plastic cap on each end robbed off some dipole ground planes I found in my Dad's garage! (Don't ask me how I know what dipole ground planes are, please!!) I had the lock-stops on the RS250 triple milled off and was going to make up some eccentric stops, but the threaded bar works really well, and I never got round to replacing it.
In normal daily riding, you'd never hit the rad... unless you have a mad tank slapper! The MC21 shouldn't ever suffer from that though, unless the suspension is in poor condition or poorly set up. _________________ Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM
Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.
Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.
Useful insight Andy! Having just bought Parky69's MC21 with RVF400 Forks, I realised the forks were hitting the radiator cap on full lock. Like the lock-stop mod you have employed! _________________ Rich
MC21 Track Bike / RS250 NF5 'Spencer', NX5 'Cadalora' & NXA 'Aoyama' / RS500 / Two Brothers Racing RC30
I drilled and tapped the lock stops on the bottom yolk and fitted small cap head screws. You can adjust the stops to suit then.
The reduced steering lock isnt a major problem, makes it a pain to turn around in the drive though
After getting over the initial fear of the stand breaking, I have become quite skilled in the art of pivoting the bike on the side (kick) stand, like you often see the salesmen do in the dealer showrooms where they often have only limited space to move the bikes around! It's easier to turn the bike around whilst off it, before jumping on, starting it, and then doing a twelve-point-turn! _________________ Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM
Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.
Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.
I have seen people pivot it around on the side stand but didnt fancy it myself, mental images of the sidestand folding up and everything ending up in a big heap of broken plastic and bent levers
Although I guess using Murphy's law this is unlikely to happen in the drive with no one about but will almost definetely happen in the pub car park at your local bike meet in front of a large crowd
paul g wrote:I drilled and tapped the lock stops on the bottom yolk and fitted small cap head screws. You can adjust the stops to suit then.
The reduced steering lock isnt a major problem, makes it a pain to turn around in the drive though
That is pretty much what I have done. Just found the right lock was pretty tight.
I can say that after working in Japan for a year exporting bikes that shifting bikes on te side stand is completely safe and I mean come on the NSR stand is so overly engineered that you would never break it!
The only thing you have to be carefull of a trick new bikes with Auto spring up stands!!! Like a 999R that almost ended up on it's side...................ALMOST!!!!!!
WhiteBaitNZ wrote: Like a 999R that almost ended up on it's side...................ALMOST!!!!!!
Ducati just can't do sidestands, never have been able to.
Both our SP5 & 996SP had the spring / auto-flick-up removed from the sidestand. I hear the Desmosedici is even worse, can't get to it with your foot when sitting on the bike, then when its down the bike stands almost vertical You wouldn't get that with a Honda
Back to topic.....has anyone had any experince of fitting a RS250R radiator to an NSR with RVF forks. Is there anymore clearance? Perhaps repositioning the rad filler cap is the way to go. _________________ Rich
MC21 Track Bike / RS250 NF5 'Spencer', NX5 'Cadalora' & NXA 'Aoyama' / RS500 / Two Brothers Racing RC30
The other option (outside of welding to the tabs), would be to drill a hole into the tabs, tap them out and thread a bolt into the tapped holes.
Allows you to do small adjustments if you want.
Or you can simple cut the tabs off the triple tree, then drill holes into the triple tree, tap those out and thread a bolts (with a tall head, or spacer) into those holes. If you can get larger spacers to set the best adjustment.
Either way will work.
The bottom triple on the NSR is pretty heavy duty steel, so it will take a good hit. The RS is all aluminum so it's a little more fragile. If you do the second option I mentioned, use a nice soft aluminum bolt so it will break the bolt before it breaks the triple, allowing you to replace if ever needed. _________________ Charles Gallant
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum You cannot attach files in this forum You cannot download files in this forum