Hi guys,

I have a fairly unused chain on the MC21. It is fairly stiff and the rear wheel doesn't spin very freely when on a stand.

I've read that O-ring chains can be quite stiff and free up as they heat up, but should it still spin fairly freely? I's only done about 12 track days, but it is around 2 years old (lubed when used).

You are joking ,

heya

Put it in neutral and set the tension as per the manual (+/- 15mm to 25mm deflection on the bottom of the chain halfway between the front and rear sprockets on the side stand) and tighten up the rear axle, If you have a rear stand or some way of getting the rear wheel off the ground, do it, then slowly rotate the rear wheel and see if the chain tension stays the same throughout the entire length of the chain. If the chain becomes tight and loose as the rear wheel is rotated then i'd say it's stuffed. If the tension stays the same over the whole chain generally it should be fine.

Another check is to pull one of the chain links wrapped over the rear sprocket away from the sprocket, the further it moves away from the sprocket the more worn the chain is.

Really worn chains will also snatch when you ride at the same speed, ditch it, as this motion will cost you more in the long run as it loads the rear wheel bearings and transmission up

I've seen more chains fail due to joining linkages failing then from wear.

If it is worn and you insist on using it remember to adjust it to suit the tightest part of the chain.

Cheers

bushman wrote:You are joking ,

No, I'm not. I wouldn't have asked if I was joking. That would have been a waste of my time, which I could use to respond to other peoples queries with helpful advice, regardless of whether I thought the solution was obvious.

The chain is not worn, has no kinks, is lubed whenever used and is a very expensive chain to start with.

However it is stiff all round, and has been since new.

Is this normal, or have people come across this before?

There has also been some testing done that proves that O-ring chains heat up and free up when used. So is this a possible scenario here?

Thanks for your help Dannyvirk, it doesn't entirely solve my issue but it is still good advice.

Can you fill me in on what is so obvious, bushman?

There used to be some great chain cleaning / lubing concoctions, which came in a bog tin which you heated up on the hob with the chain in them. The idea was to get the warm and runny oil into the nooks and crannies of the chain.

Don't know if they're still available?

If not, you could try removing it and giving it a good soak in chainsaw chain oil (not engine oil) as that is cheaper than bike chain oil as it doesn't have any any fling properties.

das134 wrote:

bushman wrote:You are joking ,

No, I'm not. I wouldn't have asked if I was joking. That would have been a waste of my time, which I could use to respond to other peoples queries with helpful advice, regardless of whether I thought the solution was obvious.


Can you fill me in on what is so obvious, bushman?

Buy a new chain?

Dave Ett...........I think it had the brand name of "Link-Life" or something very like it......My old mum would sometimes catch me melting it down on one of the oven rings and making the house stink ! Not best pleased.....

Dave Ett wrote:There used to be some great chain cleaning / lubing concoctions, which came in a bog tin which you heated up on the hob with the chain in them. The idea was to get the warm and runny oil into the nooks and crannies of the chain.

Don't know if they're still available?

If not, you could try removing it and giving it a good soak in chainsaw chain oil (not engine oil) as that is cheaper than bike chain oil as it doesn't have any any fling properties.

Chain wax, for non o ring chains only though. Comes in a big tin that you heat up until it melts and you dump your chain in it, when the air bubbles stop the chain is fully lubed. Not a good idea to use the cooker in the kitchen though

Dave Ett wrote:There used to be some great chain cleaning / lubing concoctions, which came in a bog tin which you heated up on the hob with the chain in them. The idea was to get the warm and runny oil into the nooks and crannies of the chain.

Don't know if they're still available?

If not, you could try removing it and giving it a good soak in chainsaw chain oil (not engine oil) as that is cheaper than bike chain oil as it doesn't have any any fling properties.

Cheers Dave, I'll have a hunt around and see if I can find it. Otherwise I'll soak it in oil like you suggest and check the results.

Bushman, at least that's advice. Why would you opt to replace without checking or trying to fix, considering the extra cost? That's a serious question, I'm keen to get advice here.

I had the same problem with a THC chain that I didn't lube every 5 miles. A few tight spots. I cleaned it boiled it, scrubbed it lubed it in everything I could find/imagine. It still ended up in the bin so I bought (off fleabay) a DID instead. Low maintenance and no problems.

My 6p worth.
Chains wear and links tend to stiffen up. Two strokes tend to put more stress on chains for some reason. The constant stretching makes the links tighten up until they virtually seize.....wearing sprockets and also the possibility of breakage! This, of course, is in extreme circumstances.

The only real way to check (if you are unsure..and respectfully you do sound if you have not had too much experience) is to remove the chain. Hang it over the edge of a spanner and pull it round for the complete circumference of the chain. This will show any tight or seized links.
Careful use of a chain splitter can loosen the tight links but if you find any that are really tight/seized then 'buy a new chain'!!

Hope that this helps

Mike
_________________
I don't mind dying...I just don't want to be there when it happens!

My 6p worth.
Chains wear and links tend to stiffen up. Two strokes tend to put more stress on chains for some reason. The constant stretching makes the links tighten up until they virtually seize.....wearing sprockets and also the possibility of breakage! This, of course, is in extreme circumstances.

The only real way to check (if you are unsure..and respectfully you do sound if you have not had too much experience) is to remove the chain. Hang it over the edge of a spanner and pull it round for the complete circumference of the chain. This will show any tight or seized links.
Careful use of a chain splitter can loosen the tight links but if you find any that are really tight/seized then 'buy a new chain'!!

Hope that this helps

Mike
_________________
I don't mind dying...I just don't want to be there when it happens!

das134 wrote:

Bushman, at least that's advice. Why would you opt to replace without checking or trying to fix, considering the extra cost? That's a serious question, I'm keen to get advice here.

Sorry if I sounded harsh,but a chain at the end of it's life can not be revived,the only option is replacement,the final drive,chain and chainwheels have a finite life.

Hobbit210 wrote:My 6p worth.
Chains wear and links tend to stiffen up. Two strokes tend to put more stress on chains for some reason. The constant stretching makes the links tighten up until they virtually seize.....wearing sprockets and also the possibility of breakage! This, of course, is in extreme circumstances.

The only real way to check (if you are unsure..and respectfully you do sound if you have not had too much experience) is to remove the chain. Hang it over the edge of a spanner and pull it round for the complete circumference of the chain. This will show any tight or seized links.
Careful use of a chain splitter can loosen the tight links but if you find any that are really tight/seized then 'buy a new chain'!!

Hope that this helps

Mike

Thanks Mike, appreciate the advice. I have reasonable experience with bikes but very little with chain issues, so I appreciate having things explained.

Given the amount of use the chain has had I am surprised it could be worn. It would have done 25 hours maximum on the bike. But it seems there is still an issue so I will get another one and then do what I can to get this one up to standard. Then it can go in the toolbox as a spare if necessary.

Cheers!

bushman wrote:

das134 wrote:

Bushman, at least that's advice. Why would you opt to replace without checking or trying to fix, considering the extra cost? That's a serious question, I'm keen to get advice here.

Sorry if I sounded harsh,but a chain at the end of it's life can not be revived,the only option is replacement,the final drive,chain and chainwheels have a finite life.

No worries at all. The reason I was so surprised is that I would put this chain at the start of its life, not the end. As above it has barely done any hours, a large amount of which has been running in time with little load!

So that's why I was a bit taken aback, because to me it is not obvious at all why a new chain would be stiff all round.

Just to clarify to anyone reading, the best thing about this forum is that opinions and advice are backed up with facts and experience. Not everyone has the same level of knowledge, but everyone wants to learn. Let's keep that up, otherwise what's the point? Bushman, thanks for coming around and clarifying what you meant.