A week and a half ago, I bought an Honda 1988 NSR 250 R2J MC18. It had been in storage for a number of years according the guy I bought it from. Now first off, I am new to Honda NSR's and two strokes and this is my first time to undertake a restoration of a bike.
The bike I bought needs some work and I figured that I would join a forum or two to get some help on this journey that I have embarked on. I think that once I figure out how to post pictures, I will add some to my thread so that you can all see the bike... I guess that I can also take some shots of the various things that I think will need to work on (which I will discuss below) so that I can get some advice on what to do, if that is possible from just the pictures and my explanations alone.
The bike does start (I have even started it from cold, no problem) and it sounds fine, with no rattles and no other funny noises. When it does warm up to temperature, it does seem to have more smoke coming out of the right hand (when looking at the bike from behind) exhaust can, than the left. The exhaust can on the right also seems to have more temperature than that on the left and it also seems to come out with more pressure, if that makes sense. I am not sure if that is a huge problem or not but from reading other posts online and various other things people have posted online about NSR issues, I figure it's not a good thing.
I am a little intimidated, apprehensive and excited with the work ahead but I am quietly determined to see this through. So over the last week and a half I have been reading up on NSR's and looking at the wealth of information available on various sites. From a quick look over the bike I have come up with a few things that I think I may have to look into:
* The front and rear brake callipers and brake pads - The callipers seems that they are seized or partially seized as I can't see any separation between the disk brake rotor and the brake pads. The brake pads will most likely also need replacing as well.
* The rear brake doesn't seem to activate the rear brake light. Maybe the switch is stuck or broken or something.
* The front forks - The front forks seem to have oil on them after they compressed and decompressed, when I held the front brake and pushed down the handlebars to test the front forks. I guess the front forks may need new fork oil, new fork oil seals and new fork dust seals. There is also a little rust on the upper section of the front forks near the steering stems top triple clamp.
* The rear shock absorber seems not to rebound at all. When I sat on the bike it just seemed to compress fully and do nothing else. If I stood up and put more pressure on the rear shock absorber, it seemed extremely soft and would compress all the way to it's limit and the rear of the bike would clunk down. The rear shock absorber seems to need a service.
* The front and rear tyres seem like they will also need to be replaced.
* The kickstand shut off doesn't work. Maybe it's faulty or has been removed. I didn't check to see which it was.
* The petrol tank has a little rust inside it and that will need to be removed.
* When I did a little test ride of the bike it seemed that it pulled to the left slightly. And the handling through turns was not good. It was as if you had to struggle with the bike to wrestle it through turns as it just wanted to keep turning and not return back to a neutral position after initiating the turn. I guess the steering stem bearings may need some looking at. I am not sure what else may need a look to correct this issue and would appreciate any advice.
I also took the bike into a local motorcycle repair shop after a little calling around and a recommendation from the guy who works on my four stroke Honda RVF400.
He added the following to the list of things that I need to look at...
* The front wheel right hand side rotor is warped and needs replacing.
* There is a petrol leak in the carburettors.
* The steering stem bearings are notched and in need of replacing.
The mechanic also confirmed my above list of things that I thought need work.
I guess any comments on the list of things above would be appreciated. I also thought I might ask what people think would be the best way to tackle the work at hand, that is listed above. I am especially interested in how to address that fuel leak in the carburettors that the mechanic mentioned.
If I find something else that might or does need work I guess I can add that to the thread in another post.
Last edited by Sam_O on Thu Apr 03, 2014 9:25 am; edited 3 times in total
Just my tuppence worth on a couple of your issues, if you say the tyres are shot, this could be some of your handling issues, especially if they are squared off, makes dropping into a corner feel weird. Sounds like your carbs need a good clean, the leak could be something as simple as dirty float needles. Somebody else will be along soon with more answers. _________________ Proud Father of , 05 ktm 400exc supermoto 2018 honda crf rx supermoto
Lesviffer750 wrote:Just my tuppence worth on a couple of your issues, if you say the tyres are shot, this could be some of your handling issues, especially if they are squared off, makes dropping into a corner feel weird. Sounds like your carbs need a good clean, the leak could be something as simple as dirty float needles. Somebody else will be along soon with more answers.
Thanks for the reponse and the advice Lesviffer750. I did have a look at the tyres and as you say the did seem "squared off" and were even low on air pressure when I tested the bike out. I guess once I put up a few photos of the bike it may help out for people to be able to see the things that I am describing.
On the issue of the carburettors, I was thinking of getting my hands on a couple of the repair kits for sale on the marketplace here. Do you think I will need those kits? Or should just a clean of the old parts in the carburettors be enough? Or is it best to have a look first and then determine where to go from there...?
nxrsr20 wrote:Good luck and keep us posted of the restoration, it seems like you'll be delving into the entire thing.
Thanks for the sentiment nxrsr20... It does seem that I will have to delve into the entire bike, so to speak. I am sure that from what I have read on many NSR250 rebuild threads, that when it's all said and done and the restoration is complete, it will all have been worth it.
Congrats on the bike. It's a big task to take on an MC18. They are old and parts are hard to find.
With the engine I'd recommend at least doing a compression test and checking the condition of the cylinders by either pulling the exhausts off and looking up the exhaust port or, removng the heads. It would also be a good idea to remove and clean the power valves.
Be a good idea to take the carbies off, dissassemble them and give them a good clean and new gaskets. Ultrasonic cleaning is great for carbies if you have access to it. I also find Threebond Petrol Engine Conditioner is really good for cleaning carbies. As Lesviffer said, it's possible you may need new float valves as well. They have a rubber tip that can perish leading to fuel leaking out of the carbie bowl overflow or even into the crankcase.
With a bike that old it's always a good idea to tear down the brakes and fit new seals and brake fluid at the very least. If the brake pistons are pitted they will need replacing too.
Sounds like your suspension front and rear is shot. You may find you don't only need new seals but things like new bushes etc as well. Some people rebuild their own. I find it easier to just remove it all and take it to a suspension specialist. Won't be cheap though.
Although there is a lot of disagreement over it on some forums, I have repaired rusting tanks before with a tank liner kit such as Kreem Tank Liner with good results. The kit contains an etcher that removes the rust and etches the metal and then you apply the liner. It's really important to follow the instructions exactly as you can mess it up otherwise. It's also one of the best paint removers I've ever seen too as a warning.
greggo wrote:I used POR 15 on my NSR tank for my MC21 rebuild.
Excellent product.
Thanks for that greggo. I will have to look into that product and see what I can find out about it, compare the ones that I have been recommended to try and see which one will be best for me to use, considering price and the products effectiveness.
You should do the forks while you're at it. Get new seals and new oil, you may also need to replace the bushes but wont know that until
you take them apart.
Better springs might be in order as well if you intend to take it to the track, which you certainly should. _________________ Cheers....
I did a write up of how to restore brake calipers on my NSR/VFR, might be useful to you.
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Better springs might be in order as well if you intend to take it to the track, which you certainly should.
Well after looking through some of the old threads on this forum, I was just thinking about posting some questions about restoring brake calipers... But before I got around to that, here is a post waiting for me which will likely answer many of those questions! Your input is very much appreciated. I will get onto that URL you provided and see what useful stuff it contains as soon as I can.
Many thanks alrsv1!!
You also touched on the other topic that I was going to ask about alrsv1... restoring/refurbishing the front forks and rear shock absorber. But let me see what your brake caliper restoration link has to say (as I may have more questions pop up in my mind after going through it) and then I will get back to the topic of the front forks and rear shock absorber...
So I finally got my act together and decided to post a few pictures of the bike. I will also try and get some photos of the problem areas (if possible), that I have touched on in earlier posts, on the bike...
I had forgotten to mention this but when I was buying the bike, I had noted a very rusted looking part on the bike... The mechanic I took the bike to to take a look over it also noticed it and suggested the bike had been around the coast (I guess he was referring to the sea salt affected air near the coast rusting the part faster than usual)...
I am unsure of the name of the piece that is quite rusted... I checked the parts manual page and I found it in the following area, 1988-1989 --> NSR250R2J/R4J [R5K/R5K-2] --> Fairing F32-1, marked as part number 13, although I am unsure as to whether the part number for part 13 matches what is on the diagram. I believe the part is either called the meter stay or fairing stay. I am not sure which, if either of the names are the correct one.
Hi again everyone, it's been a little while. After a look around and a bit of searching, I am pretty sure that part is called a "meter stay". If I am wrong please feel free to correct me, I am sure someone will despite no responses to my earlier question about this i. my previous post .
I have come to find a few extra little things that I can add to the list of things to look at on the bike.
The radiator has a suspected hole. I'd noticed that there was a leak of coolant from somewhere and thought it may have been in some of the piping or the radiator but it seems to be coming from the radiator. I was wondering if it is better to find a second hand radiator or to get the current one re-cored and have the hole in it fixed...
Now on the parts list for the radiator there are two parts numbers. If you go to 1988-1989 --> NSR250R2J/R4J [R5K/R5K-2] --> Radiator Assembly F29-1, part number 3 has parts numbers 19100-KV3-000 and 19100-KV3-003. Is there any difference between the two? Will either part fit my Honda NSR 250 R2J MC18?
I also noticed that the fuel tap seems to leak when it's turned to the on position and I am assuming the same happens when it's on the reserve position as well. Has anyone else had any issues with fuel taps leaking? Is it an easy issue to address? Or is investing in a new one advisable?
Man, I am still yet to post those photos of the problem areas on the bike. I better get to it sooner rather than later.
Last edited by Sam_O on Tue Jun 03, 2014 12:36 am; edited 1 time in total
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