Finally got it going and had a spin round the block, not quite right, spluttery at 3krpm and won't rev past 7500rpm but still got a buzz.
Can anyone assist with the spluttering? I have ERR3 on my dash and the warning light stays on. I think the RC valves are working Just as it reaches 7krpm it surges but the servo doesn't move at low revs (at least it didn't when I was working with the tank off). If the servo isn't working would the spluttering come from the valves set incorrectly and could I fix this by setting them up? I might try that later but dark out now.
I did have an electrical problem (no front light) but that went as soon as I kicked the bike over
watfordhorn wrote:Good news, sound like your getting there! Is the wiring all correct to the tps?
Mc28's don't have a headlight switch. They always cone on with the first kick, then they are on until you pull the card out to turn it off.
TPS is wired up correctly. I took it all apart yesterday and cleaned ever last bit.
I've read somewhere about calibrating the TPS but I don't see how. I took it all off yesterday and there is a rotating peice on the carb with washer and slotted peice of plastic, on the inside of the black socket (with the wires that connect to the bracket above) is another rotating peice and they fit snuggly together. Where are you supposed to make adjustments/calibration?
Going to spend all day tomorrow and Saturday setting up this beast, loving the learning curve!
fontyyy wrote:Err 3 is a "cannot see the TPS" error, the TPS is the wires that run from the right hand side of the carbs and plug in up near the air solenoids.
You'll either need the airbox off or the left hand inspection panel off.
50p says it's not plugged in.
Its plugged in. Maybe that whole unit (socket & wires is fooked)...Would that affect the RC valves as they don't move even on startup.
Here's how I adjusted my TPS.. It is very sensitive, but easy to adjust. Once I got the special screw out I replaced mine with a hex cap screw. Hope this helps.
TPS adjustment procedure: disconnect the tps connector from the harness. set the DVM or digital volt meter for 20 k ohm
touch the red lead to the green pin and black to the center pin. it should read at edle position the dvm should read 1.45 to 1.52 if it is not loosen the torx head screw and twist it slowly until it reads correctly.. then slowly twist the throttle and observe the dvm numbers climbing until they read 4.7 to 4.88. then go back to idle and see if the numbers are back at 1.45 to 1.52. once that is all with in range put the red test lead to the center and black to the yellow pin. it should read 4.4 to 4.45 at idle then slowly twist the throttle until is at full setting , it should read 1.2 to 1.4 if the TPS is working correctly and not damaged.. it the tps is untouched from the factory it is usually set correct
drank5 wrote:Here's how I adjusted my TPS.. It is very sensitive, but easy to adjust. Once I got the special screw out I replaced mine with a hex cap screw. Hope this helps.
TPS adjustment procedure: disconnect the tps connector from the harness. set the DVM or digital volt meter for 20 k ohm
touch the red lead to the green pin and black to the center pin. it should read at edle position the dvm should read 1.45 to 1.52 if it is not loosen the torx head screw and twist it slowly until it reads correctly.. then slowly twist the throttle and observe the dvm numbers climbing until they read 4.7 to 4.88. then go back to idle and see if the numbers are back at 1.45 to 1.52. once that is all with in range put the red test lead to the center and black to the yellow pin. it should read 4.4 to 4.45 at idle then slowly twist the throttle until is at full setting , it should read 1.2 to 1.4 if the TPS is working correctly and not damaged.. it the tps is untouched from the factory it is usually set correct
wow, thank you for the detail.
I think I have been doing this all wrong. I have been undoing the torx screw completely and removing the whole unit, do I need to do this or just loosen the torx screw and rotate the black socket (with the wires going to the loom)?
Just been down to check and all I had to do was loosen it and swivel the cap either way, live & learn...going to mess around with it now and see if I can get the ERR to go away.
joeking78 wrote: Maybe that whole unit (socket & wires is fooked)...Would that affect the RC valves as they don't move even on startup.
Yep, if it thinks the TPS isn't plugged in the RC valves just sit in the "set" position all the time. _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
OK, just spent the last 3 hours (3.20am here lol) messing around (with a bit of riding in between and found a few things.
1. Don't lose the peice of plastic between the carb & TPS! I dropped it and have spent the last 2 hours making a replacement!
2. Unplugging the RC valve servo gets rid of the permanent red warning light.
3. With the makeshift slot I made I have no red warning light (with the servo disconnected), until I get to about 1/2 throttle, then the warning light comes on. If I make adjustments either way the warning light comes on at 1/4 throttle or 3/4 throttle depending on which way I adjust it but during the last 2 hours of adjusting I never got to full throttle without the warning light appearing.
I'm doing all this manually, without a DVM, I had too much redbull tonight so had to do something.
Have I completely wasted my time trying to set it manually as it seems like no matter what adjustment I make the red light comes on at some point in the throttle?
a decent DVM is only $20 bucks here in the states... besides you should get some rest. when I set mine the slightest movement would throw it off.. there is no possible way to set a TPS without a DVM.
Drank, thanks. The TPS info I have been looking for for weeks.
{.bLanK}GoD wrote:Check and calibrate the TPS?
A friend of mine had similar problems, turned out somebody had cooned up the TPS mechanism.
AFAIA the TPS is just a pot (variable resistor). I assume checking it involves disconnecting the plug and checking the resistance at closed and open throttle positions.
Can someone confirm this theory and have information on what the resistance should be?
Joe, Find that plastic slotted adapter for the TPS. That is exactly what happened to a mates NSR. The guy b4 him had lost that piece and cooned it up by making a new one. It took ages to finally track down the fault, the bike had never ran right before that.
If you can't find it, buy a new one.
Picked up a DVM this morning, will report back in a bit.
Blank, I looked everywhere for the damn thing. It feel between the carbs and the servo area, hopefully I will find it this morning now its daylight, however I did a pretty good job of fabbing a new one which fits perfectly.
Original reading with green pin & centre pin was 2.75 at idle.
With a lot of adjusting I got it to read 1.47 idle but opening the throttle only takes it up to 3.88 or so. Same with the next test (centre & yellow) starts at 3.88 and goes down to about 1.50.
Soooo much smooter now, no spluttering at all and revs smoothly up to 8k where it hits the powerband and goes like Linford Christie on crack! LOVE IT!
Might need a bit of fine tuning as I want that 4.45 reading on WOT but for now I'm happy as can be, two months of mind bending tweaking, just need to get the RC valves working now (they may even work now the TPS is setup).
Thank you all for your help, I'm gonna tear round Dubai for a few hours
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