Not sure if anyone else knows this trick...

My LCD has been blacked out since I got my MC28, can't see a thing on it, like the digits have imbedded on the screen.

Anyway, take the clock set apart and remove the LCD screen then hold a hair dryer on it for a few minutes and the screen will return to normal instantly!

Thought I would share.

Cheers

Nice trick...thanks for sharing!

Just got to get your valves sorted now!! Can you see any errors on it now its working?

I haven't put it back on the bike yet but will when I get home.

The screen was completely black, even when out of the unit but now its crystal clear.

Actually I got this trick from Kevin at Fastline UK, he said he's done it on several units. Sometimes it fixes instantly, sometimes it needs a few heat cycles to go away.

They have a secondhand PGM there at Fastline with 27,000km's so I'm going to buy and have it sent to Doobers on Friday, with any luck I should have a fully functional MC28 by Monday!

Well it works a treat!

The screen had faded again slightly by the time I got home but a few more goes with the hair dryer sorted it out. Plugged it all and two things struck me...

First one, I have the ERR3 code (will research that now)

Second one (a good one), the mileage is only 14555km's not 18000km's as I was told

Ok, looks like ERR3 is the TPS, either fooked or not set correctly.

Does anyone know if that would stop my RC valves from not working at all? The servo doesn't even cycle at low revs.

Can anyone tell me if the TPS on the MC28 can be adjusted?

I had it off last night and there doesn't look to be any adjustment at all...open the throttle and the slotted section on the carb turns a small peice of plastic which slots into the TPS sensor which in turn, turns.

You can stick a flat head screwdriver in the sensor and turn it manually but it only moves as much as the carb would move it so I don't see how there can be any further adjustments made to it.

Anyway, whilst messing around with that I knocked a wire (very slightly) which revealed the full extent of the previous owners botch job on the wiring (see image below).



This is the wiring for the rear cylinder coil. No connection on it at all, it was loosely fitted into the female connector and secured with a bit of used electrical tape!

I'm going to tidy it up tonight. Could this explain why my headlight doesn't work and the rear light stays on? Or maybe not...