Hey all, I've just purchased this NSR, and really like it. The handling is so sweet, and I think it looks fantastic.

I'm going to go over the bike and get it all sorted, but have a look at this video so I might get some feedback from the experienced members here..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETUUlTu7mmQ

As you can see when I rev the motor it severely hesitates at around 6500/7000... This also manifests itself in 1st gear especially, but instead it will pull slowly (but cleanly) up to 7000, power comes on as it gets on the pipe at 7k, and then abruptly falls off at 9k. I'll hvae a look and see if the jumper mod has been done, but I'd like to get this fueling issue out of the way first before I go modifying things..

I'd much prefer it to rev up like this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Og2-f3uWUE&feature=youtu.be

Plans are to keep the stock exhausts so Maybe the best thing to do is a carb rebuild?
Any links to a good rebuild kit?

Got loads of other videos on my youtube page, mainly riding my R1 but have a look if interested it's www.youtube.com/aydinvideo

Looking forward to learning alot here!

PS I'm in CA, but the plate is Vermont.

Cheers,
Aydin

I've just registered as a Titanium member so I can view the workshop manual, but its not seeming to recognize that fact. Hopefully by tomorrow I'll have access to the members section I just paid for...

Here's a quick acceleration video of the bike as I first got it, see what you can decipher about the running condition.. Seems like it's missing a certain 'crispness' possibly..


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-_z5YT5npA

Nice bike!

I'd start by removing the exhausts and taking a look inside the cylinders to see what the condition is like inside, look for scouring and blow by. If it looks clean inside, great. Next, with your exhaust off, get your power valves set to HRC specs, as per the workshop page. This is most likely the cause of your problem.

Yes, you have to take your exhausts off if you want the power valves to be adjusted properly.

Thanks Shyster!

I'll pull them off in the next few days and have a look. As I thought, the membership took a day to go through, but now that I can see the service manual I'll go and see what's what.

Also, I've ordered a topend rebuild kit (OEM Honda parts) and a set of carb rebuild kits.. I don't think I'll swap the pistons out just yet, but feel like a carb rebuild is in order.

When I removed the tank I saw the servo motor sitting out located pretty much right below the filler cap of the tank. I noticed the pointer had an alignment mark and it looked to be almost spot-on... Maybe a couple mm off center. Do you think a tiny little mis-adjustment like that could cause it?

I really feel like the issue is fuel related.. I'll have to do a plug chop...

Any more insight is greatly appreciated!

Cheers Aydin

RC VALVE!!!
Clean out the carbs,
New plugs
Clean / replace air filter
Try it again, then get serious with the RC Valve - when I bought mine I thought it was quick. After following Anonymous Shysters advice I cleaned and set my RC Valves (HRC way- standard was a huge improvement, but HRC way and clean is worth the extra time and effort) Just pulled power wheelie in 2nd exiting a corner

Not sure if it helped much but while the exhausts are off, cleaned them out too.

Cool, I'll try those suggestions and let you guys know!

nidyanazo wrote:When I removed the tank I saw the servo motor sitting out located pretty much right below the filler cap of the tank. I noticed the pointer had an alignment mark and it looked to be almost spot-on... Maybe a couple mm off center. Do you think a tiny little mis-adjustment like that could cause it?

I think if the RC valves pointers are anywhere near lined up when the ignition is just turned off them the valves themselves have been setup by an idiot.

Read this page specifically the bit towards the bottom.
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Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread

So how should the pointers be aligned when the ignition is turned off?
I'm going to do the HRC adjustment procedure, and see how that changes things.. Thanks

Trick is not to worry about what the pointers on the motor are doing, they will tell you very little.

The RC valve opens to maximum when the bike is revved to about 2,000 revs. So wherever the pulley is located at those revs, is the furthest it will go, adjust the RC valves accordingly (fully open).

Don't cheat. Take the exhausts off and do it the HRC method.

Oh I dont 'cheat', just trying to understand the bike. It's not an issue of doing the work, as I've just finished a custom project installing a YZ125 motor in a Aprilia RS50 chassis.. I love working on my bikes, and want to make sure things are all sorted. Thanks for the advise, will get to it all soon.