hi im am very soon about to paint 2 sets of wheels and a frame (mc21) both sets of wheels are magteks one pair from a mc 28 and the other from a mc21, am i right in saying that twopac is the best way to go for frame and wheels? (if i spelt twopac right?) and is there anything special needed for the undercoat of the magtecks? the set i have on my mc 28 have bubbled, its defenently the paint not the wheel itself. im sure i remember someone saying they need to be eteched properly what ever that involves, i was just hoping some one could share there knowledge with me so i dont learn the hard way. also i wont be doing the painting a man near my friends workshop will do it all. thanks in advance for any info.
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if dont fall off every now and then your not trying hard enough

Magnesium alloy wheels develop what's called white rust, and this generally looks like little worms have gotten under the paint. This oxidation can work its way into the metal and cause cracks.

Currently the best coating for them is dichromate, however it's toxic and is being phased out. Aircraft parts are still coated this way, and sometimes you can track down aero engineers who will do it for you.

Someone??? said that the magnesium content on the magteks is not very high, which probably makes sense given the un substantial weight differences, so this level of preparation may not be required.

I have an old set of Campags that the paint has been well maintained on, and no signs of worms, so as long as you keep the surface prep maintained you should be OK with two pac.

thanks for the reply yes this helps alot, as they say any knowledge is good knowledge

i had my rear magtek bead blasted and etched,theres 2 ways of doing it,of course when my mate terry (who owns and runs a bodyshop) painted it,discovered it was the worse way they had done it it wasnt a big problem,but it did mean the paint didnt go on properly the first time
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

You're right. You must use a proper base coat for them, or your paint will be "bubbled" sooner than later.

I live near the Rota Air Base and a good friend give me a Helicopter basecoat, its very toxic and it's not allowed to be sold to the public, the can has no label on it, so i dont know anything more, its light green and has an extremely hard finish, perhaps its dichromate or something like that, but who knows. I'm going to paint my magteks with it this week, so i will tell you if it works.

Dont use a standar base coat !



Last edited by Dextercitox on Mon Sep 26, 2011 5:12 pm; edited 1 time in total

thanks guys for your replys all this helps loads i probably would of never known any difference but my mc 28 magteks have bubbled probably where the last owner had a cheap spray done on them. and to top it off my friend knows someoe who works as a sprayer in a airplane parts place so i might be able to get them done there.

Dextercitox wrote:You're right. You must use a proper base coat for them, or your paint will be "bubbled" sooner than later.

I live near the Rota Air Base and a good friend give me a Helicopter basecoat, its very toxic and it's not allowed to be sold to the public, the can has no label on it, so i dont know anything more, its light green and has an extremely hard finish, perhaps its dichromate or something like that, but who knows. I'm going to paint my magteks with it this week, so i will tell you if it works.

Dont use a standar base coat !

The 'basecoat' is BMS 10-11 two part epoxy primer.
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NSR250 MC21 SE
RGV250 VJ22 SP

adz35 wrote:
The 'basecoat' is BMS 10-11 two part epoxy primer.

Yes ! After reading your post, i have remember that my friend told me that it was epoxy basecoat.

Here you have a photo of the basecoat :

thanks again, the greenish basecoat looks famileir, i remember when a areaspace guy painted all our stuff, when it chipped we would have black with a greenish basecot . chipping from stonechips as my friend drag races. but thanks for the info