Hi all. Emboldened by successfully adjusting my oil injector setting so that spooge out the tip has stopped(!), I am for the first time ever looking to repack the Tyga exhaust canisters to appease the neighbors. My first question, now that I have them apart, is what are the recommended ways to clean the cores? It's especially caked toward both ends of the core (see pic). I know I need to open all the holes and probably take a wire brush to it but I'm thinking there must be some sort of degreasing agent that first can take some of the oil and worst caked carbon crud off, perhaps by soaking? Easy Off comes to mind but maybe there is something better? I would appreciate any suggestions and tips!
Many thanks,
Jim
_________________
-Jim
'93 MC21

Strong drain cleaner on the steel baffle.
_________________
Why do things simply when you can complicate them

Blowtorch and a wire brush afterwards, no greasy slime to get rid of either

Hey, thanks again Rob, I wouldn't have thought of that. Usually those Draino/Liquid Plummer products say leave it in the drain for 30 min. or so before flushing. So would you suggest brushing it on and leaving for 30 min. before hosing off? Or would it need to soak maybe overnight? If better to soak, any risk that it would be too caustic and eat the metal? Many thanks.
-Jim
_________________
-Jim
'93 MC21

[quote="RS_BOTT"]Blowtorch and a wire brush afterwards, no greasy slime to get rid of either [/quote]

Ah, don't have a blowtorch. Probably best for my own well-being actually.
_________________
-Jim
'93 MC21

Hi Jim,

If you are using flat packing, do not pack them too tight. There are many videos on you tube which will help you. I recommend watching a few before completing yours.

I recommend some high temp resistant silicone to be applied upon assembly.

Apply a light smear to the outer round section of the baffle and insert so that the rivet holes line up without trying to move the baffle around inside the canister. You can mark a line on the baffle and casing to help you line things up before final assembly. You can wipe the excess silicone off with a damp cloth once they are together.

Leave both canisters overnight to allow the silicone to cure. You can also apply some silicone to the flange where the canister connects to the end of the expansion pipe.

This will seal your canisters if you are running rich and prevent spooge coming out.

Hey, thanks sami1. You anticipated my next round of questions really well! I had watched some youtube videos before committing to giving this a go but it is good to know that I shouldn't pack it too tight. I was wondering about that. On the videos they strapped the packing in masking tape to help it fit into the canister but the original Tyga packing I took out either didn't do that or it has totally burned off over time. I have some high temp silicon gasket sealant on order as the opened one I had of course is completely dried out. Good tip to also put some on the flange that connects to the expansion pipe. The original gasket there is in really bad shape - probably better off getting rid of the remnants and just using the sealant - I should have thought of that but I tend to be pretty rote in this area due to lack of experience. Anyway, first up is getting the cores cleaned up! Thanks again.
-Jim
_________________
-Jim
'93 MC21

Using tape to hold the packing together is sometimes done.

I have done that in the past and after a very hard riding session, I got smoke coming out of the silencers with the engine switched off where the tape had begun to burn/melt. This was when I had foam pod filters on and was running lean ( didn’t re jet ).

You should be alright using tape for normal riding and if you’re running just rich enough.

Good to know, thanks!
-Jim
_________________
-Jim
'93 MC21

Jim, if you don't want to buy flat packing and wrap it round, you can get packing for RS250 that comes already to shape that slides over the inner baffle, search on flea bay under Honda RS250, there are a few on their, or google RMD motors, Rick Degens, based in USA and Japan.
_________________
Proud Father of , 05 ktm 400exc supermoto 2018 honda crf rx supermoto

Tyga actually do the glass wool cartridge for their silencers on its own.

Make sure you get the correct length as they have different silencer lengths.

May take a while to reach you depending on where you order from and shipping delays.

Oh yeah, that sounds great guys! I will check both out - prefab, made-to-order sounds really good to me; that's right in my wheelhouse! Thanks!
-Jim
_________________
-Jim
'93 MC21

Haha! Great to see you still tinkering with the NSR, Jim! Our longest registered forum member! 😀😀😀

A bit late to the conversation, but Mr. Muscle (or similar) oven cleaner is perfect for this kind of job.
_________________
Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.

Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.

Check us out on Facebook! Please "like" our page!

HaHa. Yes, Andy, longest registered and longest-in-the-tooth I suspect! Thanks for the tip. I'm making decent progress with something called Easy Off oven cleaner and checked in with Matt and Paul re pre-formed Tyga packing material. Will be here Tues. so let the games continue!
-Jim
_________________
-Jim
'93 MC21

Definitely use the Tyga preformed stuff, saves a whole lot of frustration and itching. It is the correct fit for JHA, Dogfight and HRC silencers also.

A rotary wire wheel in a drill is good for cleaning the cores as well as other suggested methods.