Hi all, ive been chatting with Paul at TYGA and im thinking of getting either the full GP250 road body kit Or the 300cc Big bore with pipes airbox, and hrc rethes!!, Has anybody here had any experiance with the bigbore kit, whats it like, what do i need to buy to get it running nice, will i need a jet kit? what sze jets, Id like an honest opinion please, im not after power, well maybe a little, but just wana put together a nice NSR race rep over the next year or so, but the kit must be reliable if im gona fit it.., Please let me know your comments, and most importantly what else i need to make her run sweet.... Thanks
i think the best course of action you can take is do a search on the forum for the 300 kit and take an hour or so to read the threads, i think this is the only real way to get an unbiased opinion.
it has been debated many times both pros and cons _________________ MC21SP - Roth-tax
CBR400 - track
MC21R - sold
MC21SP - sold
Nothing, it'll still say 250, just when its dressed up (eventually when I have the dosh) like a race rep it'll have a little better performance than a standard or mild tunned 250.
Also, it's cheaper to buy the kit (well it's looking that way) than to redo the top end on my NSR - its due soon (it's been 13000 kms since a top end rebuild).
I was thinking of tuning the 250, port flow etc, but then you have reliablity problems. The 300 kit looks like it offers 8 - 10 hp with relibilty, and just bolts on... Well i think it does, but so far my searching hasn't dragged anything up. Whether it's worth it or not I dunno.
I see StephenRC45 has had a few problems but is his kit a Tyga one?
Erm.
I'd stick to an "optimised" 250 set up.
that is - no port work other than dressing.
A nicely balanced top end.
Work to induction and exhaust to suit your circumstance.[Do you want to run open airbox for example]
I'm not saying there is anything wrong with the 300, but I've not had the best of luck. And I'm not alone.
Besides, it makes the bike almost too grunty!
A well sorted 250 will feel more... like a stroker.
Just thinking out loud here, but are the 250 crankcases up to shifting enough mixture to fill the 300 barrels effectively? _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
yeah thats all i can find tooo..on the 300 kit. im sure its fine ... i dont wana blow my 250 up just wana make it go nice, what about!!!!!! comments please, top end rebuild (its due anyway) carbon reevs, hrc holders (what they called the bits that hold the carbon bits) hrc jet kit, moded air box, and tyga full system....would that be a better option? im the same about tuning a 250 i dont want it to go pop, originally i was gona do it all port work, heads, the works, and the worst bit (until i found out that people like andy are out there ,, thankyou) i was gona get stanstephans to do it all, LOL but i hear nothing but bad stuff about his work...so its looking more like an optimised 250 set up..then
RC46, last warning mate. Put some bloody grammer in your posts. I'm sick of editing them for you. _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
Last edited by Dave Ett on Wed Aug 10, 2005 6:46 am; edited 1 time in total
Sorry Dave, I have never been very good with english, Ill try harder, but worth pointing out that even you make mistakes!.... This site is very very good and ill do my best to keep the Gramme(r) correct. at 4.30am the baby is awake i dont always have time to review my post's.
63 is easily achieved and will not harm the reliability - seems to be what the NSR was designed to produce before it got strangled.
The worst culprit seems to be the airbox, and opening that up gives the best power gains.
The de-restriction will obviously let the bike make top speed, though you can of couse just fit the speedo converter which is (1) far easier, and (2) looks better than putting a sticker on the KMH readout.
The standard pipes make good power, though the stock cans can be improved on. TYGA and the like are good, and weigh less, though it seems Honda made a damn good job of the original pipes. Don't forget that all aftermarket pipes require the bodywork to be spaced out or trimmed as the right hand chamber clashes with the right lower fairing.
The reeds (fitted to reed cages!) and stuffers seem to improve mid range response with no downsides.
All of this is bolt on stuff and will net you 62-63hp. If you want more (and I'd ride it first as you'll probably be happy!) then you need to start cleaning up transfer ports, optimising the castings and mucking about with dremels. If you cock it up though, you can wreck your crankcases.
Do the bolt on stuff, and see what you think. If you want more, then you'll need to pay a lot for a pro to do the work, or be very carefull and do it yourself. As you approach 70hp though, remember the reliability may start to suffer... _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
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