So far I have the TYGA GP tail, Tyga cans, MoviStar paint job, HRC loom and CDI, but apart from that, as far as I can tell, everything else is stock!
Dont 'really' want any other bodywork as that means painting it up and getting more stickers etc....
I dont want to take the engine apart yet, so what mods can I do? I'm mainly after throttle responce, not bothered about mad top end as I prefer a good midrange (5-6000rpm+).
Your biggest mod is to open the airbox intake up, allowing the engine to breath as it should.
Stuffers and reed cages will help the response too. Dry clutch? though that might be a bit too much work...
Best mods will be to the suspension, as this make you faster than any extra tweaks to the motor.
As long as the motor is making 60 odd hp, then concentrate on the running gear. _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
HRC jet kit for the emulsion tubes, X and Y pieces?
A day on the dyno to ensure it's giving it's best?
The best I guess is the Ohlins or Penske rear shock, as I think most of the CBR stuff needs some modification. Personally, I just had the front end rebuilt by a pro, and it transformed the handling. In time I'll get the rear done too, but since I have SP gear, it's already adjustable and set up for me.
Magtek wheels? A bit lighter, and worth some poser points.
How much money do you have to spend? _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
The carbon reeds and stuffers do make a noticeable difference to pick up.
I'd like to be able to tell you about the flywheel, but have not got one yet although I've been pestering TYGA for ATLEAST 20 years now (well it seems that way!) _________________ NSR300R - Why did i ever have a 250...
maxim wrote:
I'd like to be able to tell you about the flywheel, but have not got one yet although I've been pestering TYGA for ATLEAST 20 years now (well it seems that way!)
Me too.. If you manage to get a flywheel from TYGA your a lucky boy.. I tried and because there is a lack of secondhand engines/flywheels they are difficult to come by and rare as rocking horse PooooH!
Stuffers and carbon reeds, and as dave say's suspension is always a good return on your money, transforms the bike, Im about to mod the front end on mine with a zxr400 set up (when someone replys to my post, Dave, Andy, Anyone) and then get an ohlins rear shock.
The lightened flywheel works very well on my race bike.Much better pickup the bike feels more like a race rs.Do not know if it would be as good on a road bike as you lose a bit of low down traction just slip the clutch more i guess.
Dave - I'm not fussed about lighter wheels and s**t. Plus, i'll be putting it on a dyno when all the bits are on, I know how important it is to have the correct fueling. Thought about the jet kit, but from reading up on it, it just seems like a big headache and pain in the arse to setup.
Do you think its worth getting my current (stock) flywheel off to an engineering company and getting them to lighten and ballance it then?
I also thought about the USD forks, but my bike seems to handle quite well as it is, even with a crap front tyre! Suspension will be done soon, but I want a bit more responce from the engine first.
I have a bit of ££ to spend, I've not really set a limit, but I'm torn between buying a dedicated track bike (4-stroke), or improving the NSR further.
Idealy, I want a 4 stroke track bike and the NSR for the road. Although when I got the NSR, that was just going to be a track bike, but I ended up making a wiring loom for lights and getting it MOT'd etc.... and its great fun on the road. 4T would be more reliable on the track.
Trouble is, it sounds like you've done all the bolt on bits you can, and you're stuck without getting further into the engine.
It can be improved by cleaning up the crappy surfaces inside, including the crank cases, but obviously you need to split the engine to do that. _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
Yeah, I'm not going to split the cases until I need to. I think reeds and flywheel next, then sort the suspension, athough the suspension could be done over winter when I wont be using it.
Barry_MC21 wrote: a dedicated track bike (4-stroke)........Idealy, I want a 4 stroke track bike and the NSR for the road....
I don't understand this train of thought at all; surely you want a 2 stroke (especially a nicely modded NSR) for the track and if you must use one use a 4 stroke on the road where it's strengths (flexabilty, usabilty, lastability etc) can be used to their greatest effect?
In the past I've run an RMD setup CBR400 with Maxton suspension and two RVFs (one a minter) on the road and track and after having used the '28 on the track I have to say they were all by comparison rubbish, soft, slow, heavy and unresponsive. I'll never use the RVF on the track again out of choice.
On the road it's another story, the RVF is the better bike 80+% of the time, it's only when everything comes togeather that the NSR makes any sense, all the rest of the time I just deal with it.
And that's before I even consider running costs.
I suppose it also depends how your NSR is setup, mine is pretty well sorted, suspension is on the firm side, Tyga seat is not designed for comfort, damn loud etc and riding Monkey's '21r the other weekend, it is like a light ,quiet CBR400 with no engine braking and a bit more go at the top.
Horses for courses I guess but if you've got 2 bikes on of which weighs a ton but is silky smooth and never goes wrong and one that is the closest thing you can get to a road legal racebike which do you think will be best on the track? _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
fontyyy wrote:
I don't understand this train of thought at all; surely you want a 2 stroke (especially a nicely modded NSR) for the track and if you must use one use a 4 stroke on the road where it's strengths (flexabilty, usabilty, lastability etc) can be used to their greatest effect?
A 4 stroke will be more reliable on a track. A bike on the road wouldn't get anywhere near as much mechanical abuse as it would on a track. Rev's always 9k plus, engine would be working flat out most of the time. I know I'd rather put a 4t through that than a 2t. The NSR is ideal for the road, how often do you hold it at full throttle for anything more than a few seconds. Your never up in the upper rev range for more than a few seconds, and if I wanted a bike that had top end, I'd get a 750 or 1000.
The NSR is a toy for me, its strengths are perfect for road riding, small, light, and fast enough for the crappy UK roads.
Majority of UK tracks are fast circuits with long straight sections (with a couple of exceptions), so I'd rather run a 4t on them than risk maxing out a 250 down them and seizing at 100+
Hi Barry. If you are serious regarding suspension ugrades then give Maxton a ring ( don't have their tel no but you should find it in MCN) they have templates and settings for the NSRs They built me an all singing dancing unit for less then an Ohlins unit. This was matched to my weight and riding style + made in UK. I am more than happy with mine. I rather suspect that people go for the Ohlins jobbie for the pose value! but....... are these ?NSR? units made purposly for the NSRs or are they just lifted from the parts shelf and sent to you?
I agree with Dave...... spend on handling rather that £££on engine mods. You can only go so fast on UK roads! If you are good enough, and can really muscle you bike through the twistys you can leave the big/heavy/ unwieldy GSX Rs, Blades ect in your dust. I love doing this on a certain stretch or road near to me. Of course they come blatting past at 100+mph, but I have a saying " any Turkey can smoke" meaning that my youngest lad could twist the throttle and go as fast as the bike will let him in a straight line. On many occasions when I have pulled up for a rest, other bikers come and ask me "Is that a Yamaha?" ( I have a Fortuna rep) they are rather suprised when I inform them that it is a 250 Honda not a 750 Yam. These blokes on 1000cc bikes do not know anything about two strokes. So go for the handling mods! here endeth the lesson. _________________ Hmmmmm!
O OOo oo i just mailed Maxton today regarding a rear unint so ill let you know how much itll be, I was after an ohlins unit but thought a purpose bulit one would be better, and if dave saying its cheaper, i cant wait!
OHLINS HONDA NSR250R/RK 90-91 46HRCL REAR SHOCK ABSORBER
It is Ohlins policy for their product to be supplied by the in-country importer/supplier, therefore we can only supply to mainland UK.
Please note that 46HRCL is the type, not the part number.
All Ohlins are built and designed for each bike, a NSR shock is not a mod'ed VFR one or anything like that. They are each tested and designed to work with what ever bike its going to be used on.
If you order an Ohlins unit new they will normally ask you for you weight ect. So each shock ends up being a one off.
Ohlins build shock's, everyone else copies, and half of them can't even do that right.
I would only ever have an Ohlins or factory showa as an after-market shock just because their quality is just so much better than anything else out there. It doesn't help now that everyone has an Ohlins sticker on their bike but they really are one of, if not the best suspension manufactorer _________________ If I have to take the carbs off once more...
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