I'm having a hell of a time removing the nut on the clutch side. By any chance is this reverse threaded -- doesn't look like it to me. Anyone offer me some tips?

As far as I can remember the thread is normal, I really couldnt be 100% sure though. I do remember that I had severe trouble getting mine off too!!! A huge bar to swing on did it for me, I take it you have locked the crank at the small ends??
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NSR250R MC21 (NEARLY SOLD!!)
VFR400R NC30 (SOLD)
Santa, please bring me a NSR500 and a SP-2 next year. Pleeeeease....

I locked the small ends when I was removing the bolt on the rotor side so that is off. The problem I have is on the other side. I have the clutch locked with the clutch tool when trying to remove the bolt on the other side, no luck removing it unfortunately.

Try an electric impact wrench. Here I'd get one from Argos, but not sure about HK.

They're cheap, but extremely good, as it seems the THWACK! of the thing is far more effective than leaning on a bar.
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

Goody! Another tool for me to play with

A proper clutch holding tool and a socket on a big bar is the way to go.

I don't like the impact wrench, even if it is quick.

You can make a clutch holder out of some old steel plates welded together, with a handle welded on.

Matt@TYGA wrote:I don't like the impact wrench, even if it is quick.

Really? Why not? Surely a shap blow is better than a long heave for the rest of the gubbins?
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MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball

My impact sockets get used much less that all my other sockets, yet they look the most well used. All down to the hammering they get from the impact gun.

I've had nuts that I couldn't remove with the rattle gun even with 150psi of nitrogen rammed through it. Waiting until I'd gathered up the right tools from the box and using the big bad boy breaker bar was far easier. Those sticky nuts quiver in fear when they see my King Tony!!

It's a speed thing really and I'm never in that much of a rush when I'm doing a motor.

Matt@TYGA wrote:Those sticky nuts quiver in fear when they see my King Tony!!

just HAD to buy a breaker bar from "KING DICK" tools for this very reason.
Piss myself everytime I get it out.
Oooh-er.
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A few years ago I was sitting chatting with one of the mechanics in the old Marlboro Roberts team as he worked on the bike. He was putting in a new crank after practice The rattle gun had been used to pull it apart and I said nothing up until he put the ignition rotor and primary gear on again with the gun. "Is that ok for the crank?" I asked, "That'll be alright" was his reply. He then proceeded to torque it all up.

Hmmm. Having spent more than a few hours truing cranks up I know full well how easy it is to move a crank flywheel just a fraction which is more than enough to turn an engine from a smooth high revving beauty into a vibrating animal.

My advice is to use the rattler as a last resort, or if you don't intend to use that particular part again.

That's my theory anyway and I'm gonna stick to it.