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Seized.. engine...


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aikawa

 
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Seized.. engine...

Mon Oct 02, 2006 8:40 am » Post: #1 » Download Post

I'm sure most of you already read my post from a couple weeks back, but to refreshen your memories this is what happend:

so I was on a highway in Japan, going around 160km, when my engine cut out and my rear tire locked up. After this frightening incident, my bike didnt start anymore...

I took it to honda last week and the mechanic told me today that my pistons are seized. Does this mean my crank too is seized aswell? He hasnt opened it up all the way so he said he doesnt know.

Any they estimated the price range to get the biek fixed and it came out to be around $3500!! thats for new pistons, seals, crank etc etc.. by the way the labor for the mechanic to "just" look was $250,, ridiculous.. i know

BEcause i have no background in mechanics, I cant do it myself even if i wanted too (also lack of tools).

I cant pay for this amount, and the way i see it is buying a used engine off yahoo japan, (although the risks of the engine being damaged too is 50/50)

I need some suggestions and pointers..

How can i tell is the crank and/or the bottom cylinder is seized? I cant pay for these outrageous priced honda is asking.. If i got someone who knows to fix it, does this mean new cyclinders and pistons?

What do you guys think of this overhauled engine?
http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b69865592
Thanks
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Andy
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 12:32 pm » Post: #2 » Download Post

My suggestion is simple... get some tools or take a massive hit! How much is a set of spanners (wrenches) in Japan?! You could've save $200 already!!

It's hardly difficult to take a stock motor apart and re-assemble it. There are plenty of members here who have done it for the first time since being on the Forum.

NSR's and 2-strokes in general are "hands-on" machines.
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Dave Ett
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 2:00 pm » Post: #3 » Download Post

I would be really surprised if there're weren't lots of two stroke specialists in Tokyo. You don't have to go to a main dealer for the work.

But as Andy says, the engines are quite easy to work on really. All you need is a spanner set in 8/10/12/14/17 to get started, and a few screw-drivers.

At least take the heads off and take some pictures for us to see, as we may be able to tell you what looks wrong.
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Andy
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 2:31 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

OK, off the top of my head (providing everything's stock!)...

"Medium" cross-head screwdriver - remove all fairing lowers.
6mm allen key - remove front seat pad.
8mm 3/8" drive socket (c/w T-bar or ratchet and 200mm extension) - remove fuel tank.
"Small" cross-head screwdriver - remove airbox.
"Small" cross-head screwdriver - undo coolant hoses/drain coolant into bucket!
Plug spanner - remove spark plugs (you can leave heads in place to save $40 on head gaskets).
10mm 3/8" drive socket - remove RC Valve pulleys (**CAUTION** - LH thread - do them up to undo them!! Smile)
10mm 3/8" drive socket - undo 2 x M6 bolts securing RC Valve back-plates.
12mm spanner - remove cylinder retaining nuts.
BIG RUBBER HAMMER - gently tap cylinder to break base gasket seal, and remove cylinder. Cylinder may be very tight if it's badly seized.

Er... that's about 7 tools, and I reckon about $60!
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fontyyy

 
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 3:27 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

Andy wrote:10mm 3/8" drive socket - remove RC Valve pulleys (**CAUTION** - LH thread - do them up to undo them!! Smile)
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Andy
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 3:27 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

This looks ideal...

Teng tools on Yahoo!...


Hell, I may even get one myself!! It's a bargain with a torque wrench too!!! Very Happy
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aikawa

 
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:09 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

I'll buy that set of tools and try it myself. Will this kit do the job of removing the head?

Well once i get the head off i'll take some pics

Thanks
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Andy
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 5:32 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

Andy wrote:
Plug spanner - remove spark plugs (you can leave heads in place to save $40 on head gaskets).

Take the barrels off with the heads undisturbed.

The whole procedure is documented in the Workshop section of the Mail Site.
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j911brick

 
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:47 pm » Post: #9 » Download Post

If the pistons seized, then you probably have damge to the cylinders, and that is the expensive part. About $700 each. Plus pistons rings and gaskets I see at least $1,700. If the crank is bad add another $800+. If the rear wheel locked up instantly you may have damaged the rods/crank, or if debris has found its way into the crank case. $3,500 is not totally unrealistic for a dealer to fix. Sometimes the cylinders can be fixed for about $150 each, so the cheapest your looking at is about $700 if all goes well and you do the work yourself.
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 10:44 pm » Post: #10 » Download Post

Yep, if you're a crazy man and order everything new in a Honda dealer, I got a totally fine cylinder, piston, head and rings etc on fleabay for £80 ($150).
It's unlikey the crank is dead, if it wasn't a detonation seizure it's probably just spun a ring.

Get the plugs out and let us know how they look.
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 11:40 pm » Post: #11 » Download Post

A "spun ring" isn't that common Fontyyy... it's much more likely a lack of maintenance I'm afraid.

Too often I get e-mails saying something like "I just bought an NSR and it has xxxxxkms on the clock. When do you suggest I service it?"... Rolling Eyes Er... now!!! Smile
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 11:48 pm » Post: #12 » Download Post

I was thinking the engine leaned out and seized.
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Andy
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Mon Oct 02, 2006 11:55 pm » Post: #13 » Download Post

Why would it "lean out" and seize? Unless of course it had been fiddled with!

No disrespect to aikawa, but by the tone of the posts, he/she doesn't sound like someone who has the know-how to tamper with the stock settings (yet!). That would lead me to believe lack of maintenance is much more likely the cause. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't have the time or the inclanation to search back through their previous posts to research the state of tune of the motor. With the limited information, it's the best I can offer.
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Tue Oct 03, 2006 12:11 am » Post: #14 » Download Post

Andy wrote:Why would it "lean out" and seize? Unless of course it had been fiddled with!

.


I'm not saying he fiddled with anything. It could have been wrong to begin with. A 2-stroke can lean out and seize just due to a change in weather or altitude; not to mention a leaking seal. I was working with a team at Hockenheim Ring many years ago and we kept seizing motors everytime the bike entered the forsest section on the GP course. It wasn't till the third try that we changed to a larger main jet. We don't know if the track was just cooler there, or there was extra oxygen due to the trees.
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Tue Oct 03, 2006 12:25 am » Post: #15 » Download Post

Yeah, I'll give you that... on a GP bike! I mean, there you really are talking about jetting on the edge, and a 500 down through the trees would hit 200mph on the old (decent) circuit, so the setting is critical, but we are talking an NSR250 street bike here, that until we know otherwise, is essentially stock. The jetting by Honda is designed to make the bike usable from -whatever° to maybe +40°, at a vast range of altitudes, with no user changes. You can pretty much guarantee that if you slapped it on a dyno at either end of that temprature range it would make 45hp!!

If it "leaned out" due to a leaking seal or something, then it reinforces the "lack of maintenance" theory. We simply need more information. If the owner does indeed come back and say he fitted pipes, an HRC head conversion, removed the airbox, and left the jetting stock, then we most likely have our reason for failure! Smile
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