I just bought a '21 and am new to 2smokes so bare with me please.

Man its true, once you start caining it, you become possessed and go nuts. Its just so fun hitting powerband and hearing that motogp angry lawnmower sound!

Anyway I just have a few of questions.

Firstly, how much oil are these things supposed to use? I worked out that 100km used about 300ml. Thats heaps and is really expensive!

Next, the first bottle of oil I bought was Motul and fully synthetic. This cost me round NZ$35 for a litre. The bike drunk it like a fat kid drinks coke. I figured this was not sustainable financially so bought some cheap Elf oil which is 'synthetic fortified' at $15 per litre. Now, is it bad to use this cheaper oil and should I only use fully synthetic?

I have a leak . The two stroke oil drips out where the exhaust system bolts onto the engine. It drips quite a bit (think a drop every 20-30seconds). Needless to say, I always have lots of newspaper under the bike.

I'm not really too sure how the oiling system works so am not sure where the leak is from. I suspect the leak is where the oil goes into the carbs, or where the shaft that drives the oil pump is - perhaps its leaking down into there. Could these be possible places? On external examination theres no such significant leak.

How does the oil pump get adjusted? Can one adjust the rate of oil?


I really like the bike but this oil thing is putting a damper on the enjoyment.

First off, if the oil is dripping from between the exhaust and the barrel you either need new exhaust gaskets or reseal them. This doesn't have anything to do with the oil pump.

If you do want to adjust the oil pump its adjusted at the pump end using the cable adjuster.

Oil wise, I would rather walk than use cheap 2 stoke oil. Buy the exspensive stuff.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Yep, they drink oil pretty heavily, far worse than an RGV or late TZR but your's sounds a bit much, a figure of around 200ml per 100km was recently branded about in an oil discussion thread.

NZ$35 for a litre is about right for the stuff you want to be using.
NZ$15 is a fiver (that's £5), a fiver I say! I wouldn't put £5 oil in a lawnmower.
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Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread

So are you saying a '28 is better or worse than a lawnmower Fontyyy?
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

All two strokes throw a bit of oil down the exhaust, so if you pipe top barrel joint is poor it will leak out. This is normal. By all means check the oil pump adjustment, it may be over adjusted by a previous owner thinking more oil the better. ITS NOT. Look in the workshop section I'm sure its all in there.
Also remove the oil pump, and check that the driven shaft oil seal is not sliding down out of the pump body. This lets two stroke oil leak into the gear box.
Years ago i found out the hard way that cheap oil is a false economy. Oil is a lot cheaper that top end rebuilds. I ran an LC on some Fina crap the rep gave me. It was fine in the old air cooled 250, but the LC seized twice before i changed to Motul synthetic. Never seized again!

Hey,

Yeah make sure the oil pump is adjusted correctly. Mine used a ton of oil until I set this. Also, I use Castrol TTS which you can get a 4L of for NZ$80 if you hunt around, fully synthetic, Repco sells it. As above - I wouldn't use cheap oil.

Cheers

Nick
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MC21se

my bike was made in 1991,how advanced has oil technology
come since then?i agree with using the state of the art oils and consumables,but am i wrong in thinking that oil tech has far outstripped the engineering expectations of the desigeners?15 years is along time at the cutting edge.

when i used crap oil in the 125 i had 4 seizures in a year! then i found out its cheaper to use good oil i now use rockoil,s stuff and touch wood ive not had a problem.

jeff350lc wrote:Also remove the oil pump

Been thinking about that (and leaving it off), a gram saved and all that, plus it must take some level of power to pump the oil even if it is unmeasureable, I need all the help I can get (he says with a can of The Amber Nectar sat by the monitor.....).
Plus Steve's engine with non of the associated rubbish (airbox, oil pump, kick start) attached looked pretty sweet, and that's with a gullarm and tacky metalic blue NSR bodywork, think how good it could look with a SS swinger and RS bodywork
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Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread

Only let down by the way the RS body work was fitted hey?

It does help ease of engine work without oil pump and kick start.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

'28 to fairing though Steve, you know class when you see it eh?
TBF the RS stuff from Leigh is spot on in line with the frame and a couple of inchs from either wheel front and back, only the hacked up ram air duct and redrilled holes tell you it's not designed for the NSR.

Andy must hate me, I am the master thread hijacker, as for Charles, he's probably calling a hit man right now....

So back to oil, what you need to do plutoniumman is check the pump, it's here but don't expect too much improvement, a litre every 200 miles or so is about right.
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Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread

Thanks everyone for the input.

I shall look into all recomedations.


Cheers.

Okay I have checked the adjustment of the oil pump and cable and noticed that its way off (set to use too much). I have slackened it off all I can but there is no more play - it is slightly better but still way off. I suspect that my cable may be too short - does this sound likely?

Also even as I have it now, I turn the throttle and only after a certain amount of turn, does the pump start to open (due to slackness of the cable). This will only get more the closer I adjust the cable to correct position. Does this sound right? Only after quarter (or even more) throttle, does the oil pump start to open? Before adjustment, the pump opened as soon as the throttle was moved (no slack in the cable).

Thanks guys.

Yep thats what I found too.


Aside:

To all those advocating removing the oil pump... what about if you back off at high RPM after a long run? (Speculation) The oil pump could be mapped to add more oil under these conditions to keep the bottom end lubricated, but if you remove it and run premix you lose this.

Cheers

Nick
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MC21se

I managed to get the oil pump adjusted as shown in the diagram in the technical section by getting rid of one of the nuts so that there was more cable to play with.

It does seem strange how I have it at the moment however. The oil pump only begins to open at about 1/3 - 1/2 throttle. Also, the pump only opens to about 1/3 of it's possible range. Why would they make the pump able to be opened all that why if its supposed to be opened by a relatively small way?

Did this diagram come from a workshop manual? I'm just worried that I'm not going to get enough oil the way I have it adjusted now - just seems counter intuitive. Also there is another mark on the pump closer to where the head of the cable sits. What is this for?