instead of using the wire splice methods for speed and ignition advance delimiting, i would prefer to go with a non wire splice method.

one method is to use the hrc harness and hrc delimiter box. will this setup render my lights useless? if so, is there a way to get around this?

another method is to retain the stock harness and use the kiss delimiter box(?). i assume the kiss box is plug and play(?). does this setup produce less performance than the hrc setup? and if so, why?

any other info concerning derestricting the mc21 without wire splicings would be appreciated.

machinerage wrote:
instead of using the wire splice methods for speed and ignition advance delimiting, i would prefer to go with a non wire splice method.

one method is to use the hrc harness and hrc delimiter box. will this setup render my lights useless?

What lights? The HRC harness has no lights... why would it? HRC... Honda RACING Company! Don't see many 2-strokes in 24hr endurance! Even if you did, I'm guessing the harness would only have an on/off switch, not hi/low/pass with indicators and brake lights!!

KISS box is plug'n'play, but best of luck finding one these days. You may get one on Yahoo! Japan, but it will cost you at least $300 by the time you've bought it, paid the fees, and then shipped it to the US.

As for the differences, there's some things you are just going to have to find out for yourself! My MC21 makes well over 65hp with a free wire splice or an £85 (12 years ago when I didn't know any better!) KISS box...
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I'm going to splice mine. It has a posh box on at the moment that is plug and play if your interested.
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If you dont like the way that i ride.....Stop trying to keep up!!!!!

HRC, Honda Racing Corporation.

While fully off topic a endurance harness from HRC comes with brake lights, main lights, tail lights and all warning lights plus light switches, brake switches etc. Not that HRC made one for an NSR250. They did make them for the RS500 though.

I would have to go for a wire splice, why buy a box when its so easy to do yourself
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Couldn't remember if it was Company or Corporation, but I knew HRC Cornwall would put me right if necessary!
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You can make an adaptor which plugs in between the conectors and do the wire splice on the wires in the adaptor instead.

Then you can allways unplug it and have the standard setup again if thats the reason **** not keen on the wiresplice.

if u search the topics u can find info on doing this.

al
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Honda nc23 CBR400 AERO 1986, 1990 honda NC23 Tri-Arm, 1987VFR400 NC24 Rothmans Rep, NSR250 MC16 1987, CL250s 1983. Moto guzzi zigolo 110cc 1958. Fantic 50cc 1972. Suzuki Cobra Race bike 500cc 2t 1975 , GP125 1975. Triumph T110 1954. BSA Thunderbird 1955. Ariel VB 600 1952, 1990 MuZ 125 etz.

alannsr250 you're exactly correct... i would rather not mess with the bike's original wiring since the bike is in a practically unmolested condition.

Good luck!

The black socket (as used on the PGM-III) has so far been impossible to source. I think the grey plugs are used on the late Honda Civics.

The only plug'n'play kit that I know of the is the KISS unit. It has the female socket moulded into it.

Best of luck with the idea, but it's hardly a new one, and we've all come up against the brick wall already. Just trying to save you a waste of time.
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I used the Honda Civic plugs. Worked great. I can switch back to stock in just a couple of minutes. But, to be honest, I have no idea now why I did this and not the wire splice. It looks nice and is quickly reversible but I never see myself reversing things. I think it was the allure of having an "HRC" delimiter at the time.

My derestrictor if that's what it is plugs into 2 grey plugs / sockets that are about 1/2 way down the subframe.
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If you dont like the way that i ride.....Stop trying to keep up!!!!!

That'll be an M-Max I suspect. I have one of those in the drawer if anyone wants to buy it...

This is how I fitted the HRC unit to mine:



I removed the pins on the HRC loom, and fitted pins which matched the NSR sockets. Then, put masking tape round the plug and filled it with silicone sealant. Good enough for aircraft (granted, battle damage repair only!)
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Dave Ett wrote:That'll be an M-Max I suspect.

It's a Posh and as soon as I get an hour I'll be splicing it and flogging the posh box.
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If you dont like the way that i ride.....Stop trying to keep up!!!!!

An hour?!

Wire splice should take no more than 10 mins!! (Including seat removal/refitting.)
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I must admit, on my 21 road bike I fitted the HRC box with proper bullet connectors. After a while I realised I should`ve just done the wire splice. Would`ve been a neater job & less agro` than doing the modification I did. As well as being a lot cheaper.
If I run another road bike, I`ll go the splice route. If you do a good job, it`ll look standard anyway.
For the race bike, it was just better, in my opinion, to run the race loom. No messing about cutting out all the un-necessary lighting wiring.


Last edited by Chester362 on Mon Feb 25, 2008 10:26 pm; edited 1 time in total

alannsr250 wrote:You can make an adaptor which plugs in between the conectors and do the wire splice on the wires in the adaptor instead.

Then you can allways unplug it and have the standard setup again if thats the reason **** not keen on the wiresplice.

if u search the topics u can find info on doing this.

al

You`re talking about just the GPS part of the splice.
The PGM splice has to be done in the loom before the PGM plug.