I don't understand the question - what do you mean by stroke up? _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
Requires either off set grinding the crank pin or removing the pin all together and relocating it to give a lower stroke. _________________ If I have to take the carbs off once more...
A long stroke two stroke eh? _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
Never thought of it being done on a two stroke before. Doesn't that monkey around with mean piston speed and stuff? Or make it lower revving? _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
A quick 2 minutes with a calculator shows that stroking is a lot of work for not a lot of gain with a 54mm piston. Moving the crank pin 2mm further out (much easier said than done) only increases stroke by 4mm giving 268cc on 54mm pistons.
The bigger the pistons the better (hence use on YPVS with 66/64/68mm pistons) - If you use Tyga 300cc pistons (which I guess are 59mm) then you get 320cc on a 4mm stroke.
These figures assume the crank is amenable to stroking - integral crank pins with forged webs are more difficult to stroke as there is not enough metal to remove in the right places. A top hat bush can be used
http://www.kaila.net/tl125/tl125bigbore.html
You must also include the work for trenching the crankases - the NSR already uses trenched cases. Care must be taken to make sure you dont end up with an expensive crank and then break through the cases when further trenching to make it fit - weld and/or epoxy first before machining. See Norbert's 350 big bore page for details
http://homepage.ntlworld.com/ultimatelccrazy/html/casings%20blow%20ups%20.htm
Other options are available such as smaller crank pins and/or narrower big end needle rollers, but it is all a compromise and diminishing returns springs to mind.
If you are after a modest stroke increase, consider an offset crank pin
http://www.mbdevelopments.co.uk/other/gt1.html
This only works if the crank does not have integral big end pins.
Once you have your stroked crank installed in the cases, you need to space the cylinders to achieve the correct port timing and compression ratio and squish you want/need. This can be achieved with custom base spacer plates and copper head gaskets, but some machining will usually be required, especially if different pistons and rods are being used.
Then there is the associated revised inlet work, jetting, ignition and pipes etc... _________________ NSRless again...
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