So I started with a project MC18 R4J but most of it was crap so ended up buying an MC28 engine, another set of carbs, wiring harness with PMG II. Not sure which alternator i have on it now.

In light of previous threads, I will need to know what works and doesn't work together. Question 1 is whether i can bypass all the electronic issues altogether by disconecting solenoids. this will be a track/race bike exclusively. If not, how do identify the carbs and alternator so i can figure out how to put it all together or if any part needs to be replaced?

I''ll have a supplementary question or two once all the parts are identified.

Thanks.

I was using PJ 38 carbs from a RS 250 on my MC 28 race bike. So I was bypassing a lot of the solenoids and electronics. One thing you might be inclined to do is wind open the TPS to full throttle setting and remove it and plug it back into the wiring harness.

Just a quick caveat to Scott's post... it's not as simple as "just opening the TPS to full". There will be a very specific point where it will work best, which you'll need a dyno for.
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Andy.
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OK, very simply, because honestly it's a minefield, it goes a bit like this...

If you're running an NSR250 PGM-II*, I would strongly advise getting yourself an MC18 Mk2 flywheel, and a set of TA21A carbs at the very least.

However, personally, I would also recommend sourcing the R5/6K air correction parts too, because regardless of whether it's a track bike or not, it all just works so well! If you're willing to pay someone a few hundred quid for dyno setup time, then go for it, but you have to find someone who [a] knows how the PGM system works, so can work around it, and [b] someone who wants to then take that job on. I'm sure there are plenty of dyno shops that will say "yeah, bring it on in", but there are very few people, in my 25+ years of experience, that actually know what the NSR PGM system actually does.

PJ/PWK38s are a nice idea, but in my experience do not work as well on a 250... not even on a full TT-FIII setup, until the very last couple hundred RPM in the top couple of gears. The cost (particularly of the required manifolds) is rather significant, and the NSR250 loses everywhere apart from those last couple hundred RPM, where the 38/39s claw some back. They do seem to work much better on the 300s though, where the increased capacity seems to help draw on them better, and the induction roar from them is both epic, and I'm pretty sure worth another 5hp down the pub!

*Don't even get me started on NF5 and NH3 PGM-IIs! Please ensure you're using an NSR [KV3] PGM-II, else you'll be chasing your tail til the end of days! If Fontyyy was still active on the forum, I'm sure he'd happily corroborate!

The "standard" NSR250 carbs are designed to run with the air correction. The TT-FIII carbs are designed to run with the NH3 setup and no air correction, and while they look as good as identical, they differ internally to the stock carbs. It's why the RS PJ/PWKs can be set up more easily with no air correction, but they are just too big, and lose the bottom-end/mid-range over the 32mm carbs. I think, in an ideal world, the best NSRs would benefit from 34mm carbs, but the 32mm stockers are good for over 70hp anyway.

If you go for an unconventional setup, I wish you all the luck in the world, and hope you can get it sorted, but I honestly don't think it's worth the pain. The expense and time can be much better spent elsewhere.
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Thanks everyone for your replies,, Just reviewed quickly. Will study in more detail, figure out what i have and probably come back with lots more questions,

The NSR is rare beast here in Canada so may be hard to find someone with this knowledge.

Thanks again

tleighbell wrote:
...Just reviewed quickly. Will study in more detail, figure out what i have and probably come back with lots more questions,

The NSR is rare beast here in Canada so may be hard to find someone with this knowledge...

Yeah, that's the problem. Honestly, it's worth scouring the auction sites for the correct parts, even if it takes a while, or costs a bit more than you'd hoped. It will make your life so much easier.
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Andy.
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Thanks Again Andy. I will do that. HOw do I identify the carbs and alternator? Are there numbers stamped on them etc,

OK i get it, Carb model number is s is stamped on the body. How about a set of FK-5 carbs 062`9-NH3 950? Or am I better with the standard carbs? they seem to be available.

Re-reading Andy's initial post, doesn't look like the FK-5 carbs are a go with the stock PGM II. I'll stick with the TA21A carbs.

The TT-FIII carbs really need to be paired with an NH3 PGM-II and harness etc. You can work around things, but unless you pretty much know them inside out, it can be a pain troubleshooting things.

I know I get bitched about a lot elsewhere for saying stick to the stock parts, but the simple fact is they work so well. The core motor from 88 onwards is pretty much the same throughout, although [very basically] the compression and port timing has evolved, so can fairly easily be swapped at will (taking into account neutral switches, GPS, pulser coils, flywheels etc.). But it's all the little niggly bits that were attached and updated along the way that can cause the headaches. We've been lucky enough over the years to have access to all the HRC (and many aftermarket) parts, from MC16 to MC28, and many of the NF5 bikes/parts too, and a dyno to compare results of years of both our tinkering, and other people's.

Always start of with the best stock setup you can, then proceed from there. There's absolutely no reason whatsoever a stock healthy 88-93 (the MC28's obviously a little different) won't kick out 60+rwhp, which is a great starting point, and better than any of their contemporary 250s.
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thanks again Andy. I agree with your approach. The set of carbs i have are marked 21ABDF. I don't see that number anywhere on the chart. Can't see any TA before the 21. does this make any sense?

Also, when you said "flywheel" are we talking about the alternator rotor/magnet? if so, how can i identify the MC18 MKII version? Pictures on the auction site don't show much. Is there an identifying number or mark?

I have located a rotor from engine number 1145416. the rotor is marked LKZ 06. Is this from a MK II? is there a place to check engine number vs. model?

Hope this helps

MC16 1000047 - 1021049
MC18 2J 1031032 - 1058121
MC18 4J 1039597 - 1051877
MC18 5K 1130033 - 1149562
MC18 5K-II 1130033 - 1149562
MC18 6K 1130054 - 1148151
MC18 6K-II 1130054 - 1148151
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Rob to the rescue again. thanks Rob