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Tips for buying a new NSR250 in the US


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kangranwang

 
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Tips for buying a new NSR250 in the US

Sun Feb 23, 2020 6:56 pm » Post: #1 » Download Post

Hi all,

I'm planning to get a new NSR250 in the US(or similar bikes). Any tips that I can get from you guys? So far the work that I've done:

1. Service: I've found someone in my local area that is willing to service the bike.
2. Parts: I've found this website that has a lot of parts: http://tyga-performance.com. And also I believe Japan Yahoo should have some too.

So when I take a look at the bike, what are the red flags that I should be aware of? The owner has owned the bike for almost 10 years and it's a 1990 year model.

Thanks so much!
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Andy
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Mon Feb 24, 2020 1:08 am » Post: #2 » Download Post

Hello kangranwang, and welcome to NSR-WORLD.COM Smile

One of our US members will probably chip in soon, but in the mean time, is the bike/owner known on the forum? If you post some details (state/current owner/model etc.), it could certainly help.
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kangranwang

 
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Mon Feb 24, 2020 3:28 am » Post: #3 » Download Post

Andy wrote:Hello kangranwang, and welcome to NSR-WORLD.COM Smile

One of our US members will probably chip in soon, but in the mean time, is the bike/owner known on the forum? If you post some details (state/current owner/model etc.), it could certainly help.


I'm not sure if the owner is in this forum. But it's a 1989 nsr in California.

I simply just want to know what are the things that I need to check on the bike mechanically? Rust in the gas tank/barrel/piston? Any weird sound of the engine? Will cold start take a long time? I'm not too worried about the tires and brakes as I can definitely change them in my local shops(I've spoken with some folks locally). The seller owns quite a few 2t bikes and he has a mechanic guy, so it might be easier to just get things done at his end before shipping the bike over to me.
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RobH

 
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Mon Feb 24, 2020 12:46 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

Best to look under the covers to see how clean it is. Plenty of bikes are shiny on the outside. Also, check for any receipts for evidence of work done. If it's hard to start or revs race when firing it could be a worn seals or leaks from cases and/or carb manifolds
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prelude2.2
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Mon Feb 24, 2020 4:55 pm » Post: #5 » Download Post

I have personally dealt with 2 NSR enthusiasts in the states and I would recommend contacting them if you are looking to buy an NSR as I think one is selling one right now. PM if you want the contact details.
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Andy
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Mon Feb 24, 2020 6:32 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

The "problem" with the 1989 MC18 is that it shares the same centre crank bearing/seal as the MC21 and MC28, which is prone to premature failure. If you don't really know your stuff, then I say it's imperative that the bike starts from stone cold very easily. If it takes continual kicking over, then I would be wary. Irrespective of how it starts however, unless the seller has a verifiable receipt for either a new crank or a refurbished one within the last 6 months, be prepared for a engine tear-down and a new bottom-end.

Sorry to sound all doom and gloom, but the centre seals just don't play at all well with fuels with ethanol content, and it's now my biggest concern with later models.

The rest of it is pretty much common with all bikes of a similar age. Have a good look at the chrome on the forks & rear shock for rust, pitting, and traces of oil. Check the brake pads (particularly the rear) and discs, and the condition/adjustment of the chain, as they all tend to be good indicators of previous levels of care/maintenance.

With the motor running, it needs to have a nice smooth idle at around 1200rpm. Blip the throttle, and it should instantly return to an even idle. If the revs "hang", or the idle is erratic, it can be a sign of a bad crank seal. When blipping the throttle, check to see the RC Valves (powervalves) operate. It's unlikely they will operate as you expect... unless you rev the motor quite high, it will appear that the RC Valves open and then immediately close again (unless you rev it past 8000rpm -- but I don't expect the seller to be too happy if you try revving the motor like that!). This is normal, as the RC Valves open at 2000 for setting purposes, then close again at around 3000rpm.

And have a good long chat with the selller! Does he show a good knowledge of NSRs and the community, and inspire confidence, or is he just trying to cash in on the 2-stroke gold rush?!
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Andy
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Mon Feb 24, 2020 6:50 pm » Post: #7 » Download Post

Also, make sure it's actually an 89! Again, if you're not entirely sure, post some photos here for use to have a look, and if you can, the engine number.


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kangranwang

 
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Mon Feb 24, 2020 11:23 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

Andy wrote:Also, make sure it's actually an 89! Again, if you're not entirely sure, post some photos here for use to have a look, and if you can, the engine number.



Hi Andy,

Thanks for all those advices! Here is the ad: https://www.cycletrader.com/listing/1989-Honda-NSR-250-5011340085. I'm not sure if the seller is willing to provide the engine number but I can definitely try:)
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kangranwang

 
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Tue Feb 25, 2020 12:07 am » Post: #9 » Download Post

Andy wrote:Also, make sure it's actually an 89! Again, if you're not entirely sure, post some photos here for use to have a look, and if you can, the engine number.



Also I want call out that I'm willing to do some service at the seller's mechanic shop since the shop has experience working on 2T vintage bikes. Plus it will be hard to find that shop in my local area.(I've called 10+ shops and most of them don't like vintage bikes especially 2 stroke ones)

So, any suggestions of service and part replacement are welcomed too!
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Andy
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Tue Feb 25, 2020 2:47 am » Post: #10 » Download Post

Well, if the seller is genuine, I don't see why he wouldn't want to confirm that the engine number falls within the 1989 number range. Just to make sure it's all R5K under the skin!

I'd also question why it's pictured alongside at least 5 other NSR250s and a CBR400RR Gull-Arm if it's a private seller. It looks more like a grey import dealer to me. Even the most hard core US NSR owners I known/met over the last 25 years haven't owned that many NSRs at once, and those who've owned two or more generally kept them in near mint condition, given the expense and difficulty obtaining/registering them in the USA in years gone by!

I'm not saying it's not a good bike/buy, and a clean CA title is worth a lot, but I would say to approach it eyes wide open. It doesn't exactly look like a bike that "has been well cared for and stored in a climate controlled garage" to me, so just [a] buyer beware, and [b] budget to spend time/money after the fact to bring it up to spec.
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kangranwang

 
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Tue Feb 25, 2020 2:53 am » Post: #11 » Download Post

Andy wrote:Well, if the seller is genuine, I don't see why he wouldn't want to confirm that the engine number falls within the 1989 number range. Just to make sure it's all R5K under the skin!

I'd also question why it's pictured alongside at least 5 other NSR250s and a CBR400RR Gull-Arm if it's a private seller. It looks more like a grey import dealer to me. Even the most hard core US NSR owners I known/met over the last 25 years haven't owned that many NSRs at once, and those who've owned two or more generally kept them in near mint condition, given the expense and difficulty obtaining/registering them in the USA in years gone by!

I'm not saying it's not a good bike/buy, and a clean CA title is worth a lot, but I would say to approach it eyes wide open. It doesn't exactly look like a bike that "has been well cared for and stored in a climate controlled garage" to me, so just [a] buyer beware, and [b] budget to spend time/money after the fact to bring it up to spec.


I've asked the seller the engine number and he said he would get it for me.

It seems like the seller has a lot of bikes, at least 4 2t bikes, so he might have more other bikes?

I'm flying to CA this weekend to take a look at the bike in person.
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kangranwang

 
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Tue Feb 25, 2020 2:18 pm » Post: #12 » Download Post

Andy wrote:Well, if the seller is genuine, I don't see why he wouldn't want to confirm that the engine number falls within the 1989 number range. Just to make sure it's all R5K under the skin!

I'd also question why it's pictured alongside at least 5 other NSR250s and a CBR400RR Gull-Arm if it's a private seller. It looks more like a grey import dealer to me. Even the most hard core US NSR owners I known/met over the last 25 years haven't owned that many NSRs at once, and those who've owned two or more generally kept them in near mint condition, given the expense and difficulty obtaining/registering them in the USA in years gone by!

I'm not saying it's not a good bike/buy, and a clean CA title is worth a lot, but I would say to approach it eyes wide open. It doesn't exactly look like a bike that "has been well cared for and stored in a climate controlled garage" to me, so just [a] buyer beware, and [b] budget to spend time/money after the fact to bring it up to spec.


Engine number is MC16E1133176
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Andy
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Tue Feb 25, 2020 9:06 pm » Post: #13 » Download Post

kangranwang wrote:
Engine number is MC16E1133176

That falls within the 1989 range. Just wanted to be sure it was all 1989 under the bodywork too. Smile
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kangranwang

 
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Tue Feb 25, 2020 11:14 pm » Post: #14 » Download Post

Andy wrote:
kangranwang wrote:
Engine number is MC16E1133176

That falls within the 1989 range. Just wanted to be sure it was all 1989 under the bodywork too. Smile


Thanks Andy for checking that for me! Where in the body that I can see the year number?

Btw, I've also talked to the mechanic shop that works with the seller. The mechanic guy owns 2 NSRs and it seems like he's very familiar with it. So I'm going to get a few things done at his shop before riding the bike. So I don't think I need to replace the motor just because it's an MC18 right? Maybe just a few things around it like the crank and seals?
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Andy
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Wed Feb 26, 2020 12:59 am » Post: #15 » Download Post

No, no need to "replace the motor", but be aware that the 89-97 NSRs all have the same centre crank bearing with integral seal, which is a known weak point. Having seen dozens of bad centre bearings over the years with increasing frequency and often non-existent seals [that I put down to poor fuels/ethanol content], I am overly cautious, and advise anyone else to be too. If you know the bike/history and/or owner, then it's a different story, but when effectively buying blind, you need to ask all the relevant questions.

The model in the advert is an "R5K" variant (with the correct motor!). The full designation is 1989 NSR250R5K MC18, usually just referred to as NSR250 R5K, MC18 R5K, or just MC18 Seed. (SEED is the colour scheme, based on the 1989 NSR500 race bike.)


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