I think I've blown the ignition circuit of the CDI on my MC21... Powervalves cycle but nothing else. Think it might be self inflicted as I just plugged in a DMR derestriction harness and might have confused the CDI as I still have a M-Max box still plugged in. My question is - repair 30 year old CDI or replace with Zeeltronic or Ignitech? The cost of any of these solutions is pretty similar, any thoughts or suggestions are most welcome..... Oh yeah - I live in Australia! Cheers! Ben.....
Sorry to hear about that. Those delimiters are a major reason why I strongly advocate a simple wire splice every time.
There are pros and cons to each of your options, depending on your requirements/use case.
PGM-III repair:
The PGM is surprisingly capable, and will make power all the way into the 70s rwhp range. It's technology is old however, and a little bit fragile, although if the RC Valve is serviced & maintained appropriately, shouldn't normally cause any issues. It is though, as you say, expensive to replace.
There is a company in Japan now that's offering a complete PGM-III rebuild service, including a brand new PCB and more modern [and potentially robust] components. For the vast majority of use cases, I'd always recommend a PGM-III.
Ignitech:
The Ignitech works well, but it only comes supplied with a generic base map, so you need someone with full understanding of the NSR's requirements to make the most of it. It's actually not as sophisticated as the PGM-III, but you do have control over parameters that are of course unavailable on the PGM.
Really, it's probably more suited to those with a 300 kit and 300-specific expansion chambers, as the PGM-III just isn't designed to realise the 300 kits potential. (The PGM-III still works fine with the 300 kit, but I believe more potential can be realised if certain perameters can be tuned to suit it.)
Zeeltronic:
I believe the Zeeltronic is the cheapest option, but I've never personally seen one used on an NSR. From what I've been told though, Borat's extremely helpful and supportive, and when we set one up on an RD500 a few years ago we had extremely good results. I don't know if he has any specific NSR250 data.
As a side note, there is a repair service in Europe that also offers an "internal derestriction", which I personally would discourage you from having performend, if you use that vendor. I have not heard anything bad about the vendor, but personally, I think modifying the PGM-III internally is a mistake. OK if you intend to keep the bike for life, but there's no way for a future owner to know it's been modified, and there's no telling if it may cause issues later down the line. _________________ Andy.
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Thanks for the info Andy! I like the idea of programmable but - "I think my ambition outweighs my talent!" My bike is my 'forever' bike, period correct performance parts but I'm not chasing more horsepower as such - just optimise what I have. I can get my PGM refurbished for a reasonable price - by the European place I think you're referring to... Probably minus the HRC mod! Be interesting to know the Japanese place you refer to??!! I was thinking of contacting Borut but am sure he'd suss me for the electrical muppet that I am
I can't remember the Japanese vendor off-hand. But I'm sure if you have a look on Yahoo! Auctions for some PGM-III listings, it will soon pop up. What I can almost certainly guarantee though, is if it's from Japan, it's going to be expensive!
In your position, Personally, I would absolutely go the repaired/replacement PGM-III route. My MC21 is knocking on the door of 68rwhp (with peaky pipes -- a little over 66hp with my preferred Ethos chambers) and the PGM-III handlies things perfectly. _________________ Andy.
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