Get the revs up to around 9500 and hold it there. When the red light comes on let out the clutch so it *just* starts to engage (the revs will drop), and balance that with a shade more throttle. As soon as the light goes out you let the clutch start pulling and a tiny split second later open the throttle wide open and hold it there. Then slip the clutch keeping the revs over 10,000 but getting as much pull as you can , until the thing is banging off max revs and letting out the clutch doesn't drop the revs (i.e. fully engaged), be ready for this because you must immediately bang second gear and it will happen suddenly.
You will ride the clutch a loooong way if your gearing is right. If you've got a stock MC28 gearing 1st is not so long and it'll be different.
It is really important to practise your racing starts, it can be very important for the race, and it is very common that people don't ever practise them. If you can find a place to do it, just a half hour done a few times will vastly improve it. Also in the ACTUAL race bear in mind that you must conentrate not to dump the clutch and lift the front off the line. This is the classic first-time racer mistake, I've seen it happen so many times, but on the 2-stroke it's less of a risk. _________________ MC28 SE -sold-
MC21 with RS250 engine -for sale-
MC21 race bike -soon for sale-
Worth a mention,,,, I have an R and a SE at the mo, The SE pulls away very very nicly indeed, but the R needs a handfull of revs, it could be down to the clutch the r's have wet and the se has a dry clutch that i have to say is very very very nice indeed, cant understand why, i thought my r had a dirrent gearbox, or was set up diffrently, but appears not, Maybe my clutch needs replacing as it wants to stall if i try a slow pullaway with small revs, but the SE will pull from tick over and makes launching really nice, i will investigate, but in the meantime have a go if you can on a se and see if its diffrent?
The kind of pulling away you are talking about is a world apart from the starting grid of a race.
One summary piece of information I was trying to express, but realise I didn't spell out completely, is that you should have the throttle wide open and balance the revs with the clutch, don't try to balance the revs with the throttle.
With practise you will find there is a speed at which you can finally dump the last bit of clutch completely in one bang and only just avoid bogging. Once you get that down it gives you something to shoot for. _________________ MC28 SE -sold-
MC21 with RS250 engine -for sale-
MC21 race bike -soon for sale-
i will have a go at it in a nice area sometime soon...im starting racing next season so i wanna have some idea of what to do...
i know i shouldnt really ask this on a nsr forum but.....EVERYONE is tellin me not to race the NSR....too expensive...
do you guys think it will be better if pick up an RGV (sorry all ) for racing?
does racing the nsr compared to an rgv as expensive as people say? is it all down to the crank?
cheers.. _________________ Philip Ahn
MC21 NSR250R
I raced mine for two years. It didn't cost me anything in spares, bar one siezure (totally my fault for jetting wrongly).
I loved the novelty of it against the RGV's.
However, there are loads n loads of RGV's out there, so if you're serious, the RGV will be easier to source tuning bits for, and keep going if it does go pop. Or when I should say...
More chance of borrowing bits should you break it on the day too.
All this said, if you're serious about racing, buy a 400. Ouch! No need to tinker all the time, no fears of a siezure whilst cranked over giving it some.
And that's why I swapped to an NC... _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
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GTS1000 oddball
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