I can't seem to remove the flywheel. I have a flywheel puller from Jha but it's extremely difficult to turn (even when I use a breaker bar). Is this normal or did I miss removing something? Obviously the centre bolt of the flywheel has already been removed. Anything else?
You must not remove the bolt! If you remove it when you wind the puller in it trys to bind on the inside of the crank. This makes turning the puller very hard and can also ruin the end of the crank shaft. Think what your trying to do girls!
Put the bolt back in and then undo it a turn. Leave it in and then refit the puller. Now the puller will press on the bolt and not bind on the crank. Have a look in the tech section under cranks... its all there and has been for as long as I can remember. _________________ If I have to take the carbs off once more...
The Jha puller has an insert that protects the threads. My question is, does it require a lot of force to turn the puller. I removed the center bolt already, is there anything else that needs to be removed?
Once you get it on tight, whack the end of the puller with a hammer (as if you are using the center bolt as a punch to push the crankshaft end out the other side of the flywheel). Usually a few times is all it takes for the flywheel to pop off. If it does not come off with 3-4 whacks, retighten the center bolt and try again. _________________ Paul Herr
'88 FZR4/GSXR/YZF Frankenbike
MY BIKE PICS
OK, maybe I'm not using this sucker properly. This is a Jha puller so it has a separate insert to put into the threads of the crank (where the retaining bolt was). That way it doesn't damage the threads.
So, i insert the main body of the puller into the flywheel (the reverse threaded bit). Then I tighten the bolt into the crank (the part with the t-handle). I hand tighten as much as I can.
Now what do I do? Do I keep on tightening until the flywheel pops off? Seems like a hell of a lot pressure I need to put on the puller.
I can't really hit the end of the puller because it is threaded into the main body of the puller (the part that is reverse threaded).
Can't recommend hitting the end of the puller with a hammer. May as well just throw your crank on the floor and be done with. The crank's a precision component and if you've rebuilt cranks you'll know how easy it is to move the thing a couple of thou' out of true with a whack of the hammer
Try warming the centre up with a heat gun. Don't use a flame as you could melt the glue that holds the magnets in and they'll come flying out at 12000rpm. That'd be fun!
I've had a few sticky rotors that make you think about reaching for the sledge hammer, but they usually come off in the end.
After a few attempts, the heat gun method and a nice crack of the hammer (on the handle) did the trick. Next time I'll know to leave the heat gun on for a very, very long time. Now onto the next thread, how the hell do I measure the tolerance of the crank.
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