The Japanese rate their gas a little differently then us. They use RON. North America uses something else. Anyways, the way it goes is:

91 RON = 87 NA
95 RON = 91 NA
98 RON = 94 NA


Just to clarify. Japan, Europe, Austrailia use RON. North America uses AKI, also referred to as (r+m)/2. Usually 4-5 points lower than RON.

well, i just filled the tank up with 100 Low Lead....
and the bike sang along pretty much like Stephen said....

I will stick with the 100 low lead for now, but I am afraid it might ruin the
heads...burning too hot!...

well with the tyga pipes and the wire splice, it appears that the
compression under a load does require higher than 91RON

well....

hope I didn't do any damage with all that testing....

I took the carbs off so many times...
checking all the stuff... over and over...

but put it back together.....
in front of my brothers all laughing at me as to whether I will get it
back together....

started on the first kick!



but, now with the 100 low lead, the idle has to be reset....
it idles way to low...and sometimes stops...

I will stick with the 100 low lead for now, but I am afraid it might ruin the
heads...burning too hot!...

Burning too hot? How's that??

Here is some good info on gasoline you might want to read: http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/Fuel_Basics.htm
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Paul Herr
'88 FZR4/GSXR/YZF Frankenbike
MY BIKE PICS

thanks,

actually, I am a high school chemistry teacher...

I am always up for reading more about subjects in my field.

my reasoning, is that not only does the 100LL have a higher
octane rating, but it also has more BTU's per mL than
normal gasoline...

thus, when it burns it will release more heat energy (delta H)..

I just checked my plugs and the ciramic core is white...
after running it with 100LL...(too hot for the plugs.)

I think that I will try running with e85 next...

it has lower BTU's per mL but still has like 110 or 105 ocatene rating...

but I am worried about long term useage and the fact that the floats
in the float chamber are made of some sort of plastic...

the e85 should burn cooler but still function under the high pressure.

I suppose that I could order the 10's or 11's like with the RS250

but first, like my friend said, I want to order a stock air filter....

does anyone have any links to purchasing a stock air filter?

you may be correct...however...
the reason that the plug looks white is because of lead deposits...

avgas is supposedly burning cooler...tham regular gasoline....

-

You can of course do whatever you want, but I wonder why you are experimenting so much with fuel?
Most people here run their NSRs on leadfree pump gas 97octane, with great success.
I use it for trackdays where the bike never comes below 8000rpm with no problems.

There is no need to complicate things. These bikes are streetbikes, not Mars vehicles

I suggest that you check if there are any airleaks anywhere, check your oilmixture(it affects the air/gas ratio) use pumpgas, NGK BR9ECM sparkplugs and then get the jetting right.
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Poul
"If Life Gets Boring, Risk It!"
MC21SE, KISS box
MC21SP, HRC box, racing loom

I want to know the suggested settings from TYGA
for adding their pipes to a stock MC18.

I e=-mailed them I think, but they never emailed me back?


does anybody know the recommended settings?

also anybody have a link to a supplier of a stock airfilter
or replacement?

You are not going to get much from anyone on recommended settings. Every bike is different. Lets say yours tends to run leaner than the rest out there, just because the way it came out of the casting molds and was assembled a little different. If someone like Tyga said, "Run 145 mains, 40 pilots, and stock needles" and you seized your bike immediately, wouldnt you be a little upset?? In fact, most Americans tend to sue over little things like that.

Most important #1 with these bikes: learn to jet. Like some of these guys say, "If I have to take the carbs off once more....!!"

By the way, jetting has WAY more to do with combustion chamber heat than fuel composition. And different fuel compositions atomize differently, so just switching types of fuel can richen or lean your combustion chamber air/fuel ratio. If the fuel does not atomize, it passes through the engine and never burns properly (taking with it unburnt oil in the form of "spooge" out the tailpipe). Running rich lowers the combustion temps, and running lean increases them. Avgas is known for haveing a slow atomization rate, because it was designed for airplanes turning no more than 5000 rpm. In a 12000 rpm engine, the fuel does not have enough time to atomize properly and tends to lean the air/fuel ratio.

Bottom line is this: you will get the most power from picking a particular fuel source and sticking with it, and jetting accordingly. Race gas will net you more power than any other fuel (provided you pick the race gas blend designed for your 12000 rpm 2-stroke). But most people have great results just from ordinary pump fuel.

And then there is the compression ratio and squish clearance factors that help the fuel burn.... ....but we will be getting into several pages of tech data to cover all that!

Hope this helps!
_________________
Paul Herr
'88 FZR4/GSXR/YZF Frankenbike
MY BIKE PICS

Here is what I use in my mc-18 and mc-21. should be able to find it at any dirt bike shop. buy the sheet and cut it to fit. The green I think is the finest.

http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catalog/accessories.html
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