I bought some race-tec gold valves for the NSR but I don't know if I want to install them. Has anybody done this? From the instructions it looks like you have cut the main tube that goes through the center of the fork and that just doen't seem like a good idea to me. I guess I canalways install them in my Hawk GT.
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james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm

had them in mine , they rock

Are you talking about emulators in the R style forks, or valves in the SE/SP forks? The SE/SP forks come apart just fine, no cutting required.

The SE/SP forks have just as much potential with the stock valves as the Race Tech valves do. It's kind of like jetting in a carb; you need to know how to shuffle the brass in a carb to tune it, and you need to know how to shuffle the shims on a valve-stack to tune them also. Buying the Race Tech valves is like buying a pre-jetted carburetor. And I seriously doubt they have enough R&D on an NSR to have obtained a really good valve stack for these bikes.
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Paul Herr
'88 FZR4/GSXR/YZF Frankenbike
MY BIKE PICS

Hey Paul, I'm refering to the emulators. The only way they can be installed is to cut the rebound tube which is what the instructions say, but I don't think that is a good idea. May as well just leave it stock. Yes these are SE/SP forks.
_________________
james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm

The "emulators" are also known as "cartridge emulators" and they go into forks that do not have a cartridge; like the R model forks. The SE/SP forks ARE a cartridge fork and you dont need emulators in them. Whatever you do, do NOT cut the cartridge or the rebound shaft on your SE/SP forks.

If you wish to revalve the SE/SP type forks, you can remove the compression stack from the bottom of the cartridge. See the little piece of steel inside the tube on the bottom, the one where the bottom fork bolt threads into? Press the middle piece IN a tad. You should see a removeable clip in a groove in the tube. After removing the clip, you should be able to thread the fork bolt into the hole and use it to pull the "base valve" out. This is your compression valve and shimstack. If you were to purchase aftermarket valving, this is the piston and shimstack that would be replaced.

The rebound valve is located on the end of the small shaft inside the cartridge, and can be removed by slipping the entire rod out the bottom of the cartridge once the base valve is removed. The stock rebound valving is good, and most people never need to touch it.

When removing either valve/shimstack, you will need to grind the peened tips around the nut, so the nut is not damaged on removal. You need to grind JUST ENOUGH of the tip of so the peens are removed. And always use loctite on reassembly so the nuts wont come loose inside.

Does that help?
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Paul Herr
'88 FZR4/GSXR/YZF Frankenbike
MY BIKE PICS

Thanks Paul, now that you mention it, it makes senss: They are called emulators because they emulate (rebound dampening) . I have the forks down to the valves. But since I don't know what I would want to do with them yet as far as valving, I figure I'll just leave it be for a while. Thanks again, yo have been very helpful. Now I get to take apart the Ohlins USD forks for my CRF. (leaking seal).
_________________
james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm