Hello all
Can someone tell me if the clutch centre nut is on a standard thread or an arse about face thread as mine is very tight and I don't want to break somthing by tightening it up whilst trying to undo it.
Thanks
I'm also about to replace my clutches, it kinda drag at 1st gear at low rpm. So let me clear that out, to remove the center bolt is counter clockwise? and after that whats next? its my first time to replace my clucth.
If you are just replacing the plates then you don't need to remove the nut. You only need to remove the nut if you are replacing/removing the clutch basket or hub. A new basket is about $190 from Honda and the hub is about $70. _________________ james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm
Remove the three bolts holding on the cover, then there is six bolts holding on the pressure plate. That is pretty all there is. Its really super simple, except you have to get the stacking order/thickness of the plates correct. _________________ james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm
You don't actually need to remove the clutch nut as has been told, but if you do then IMO it best not to use an impact driver. I think the old windy gun is for those that don't have the correct tools, or for F1 where the impact gun probably costs the same as two NSRs.
The impact gun can smash the gear location dogs together which is not really a good thing. The proper tool would be a clutch hub holder. This can either be bought (universal hub holder) which looks and works like a set of mole grips with a couple of long bent fingers on the jaws, or you can make an NSR specific one using a couple of the old steel plates welded together and a bar welded to them. Weld a long bar on and then use a long breaker bar with 27mm socket and you should (reasonably easily) remove the nut.
I forgot to mention: I'm assuming you have dry clutch, and there are springs under the six bolts. Those six bolts don't need to very tight. Check the parts section to see how it all goes together. _________________ james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm
By the way j911, mine is wet type.. So do I need to remove the water pump cover before I remove the whole cover that covers the clutch? or just remove the whole cover without removing anthing? I kinda confused about the instruction that discusses about removing the oil/water pump drive gear. do I need to remove this in wet clutch if I will just replace the Friction plates.
I never really thought about it on a wet clutch since I don't have one, but the process is the same except for removal of the cover. Be sure to drain the oil first. I sure somebody will chime in with more details when they get up on the other side of the world. _________________ james
Its not how fast you go...Its how you go fast.
MC21 Rothmans
RS250
RC31
CRF250X
748R
Porsche (many)
http://members.rennlist.com/j911brick/rennlist3_002.htm
Thanks Matt
The windy gun was the last resort as I was using a mole grip type clutch holder and tried a breaker bar but the clutch holder woud not hold , not wanting to damage the alu clutch centre I used the windy gun and the clutch tool .It worked great ,but will torque it back on to avoid any more problems. Cheers
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