On Earth, about the middle of the gauge on my bike.
On the moon on your unknown bike I have no idea! _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
He, He, yeah I had to come back to earth. The NSR uses something like 400l of air every minute and I could'nt keep up with the escalating compressor costs!
Around town or open road my guage reads about 60'c no matter how hard I ride. I replaced the B9EG plugs with a pair of BP6E-S plugs. Now I know the heat range is WAY too hot, I'm just experimenting on very short runs so I'm not too worried about a piston melting or anything. The guage now displays what I think is 70-75'c. So I was just wondering if this is still within a safe limit.
Alwyn wrote:
I replaced the B9EG plugs with a pair of BP6E-S plugs. Now I know the heat range is WAY too hot, I'm just experimenting on very short runs so I'm not too worried about a piston melting or anything.
Why would you do that? The NSR should be running BR9ECM's, unless it's an MC16, or unless you are running in extreme conditions, which you aren't.
You've not even answered Dave's question as to what model it is, but you are risking total meltdown even on a short run with those plugs. _________________ Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM
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Yes I know. It's an MC18 and I've sat with a bottom-end richness that gives me grey hair at 26! The richness seems to foul the plugs bigtime and kill any spark after not even 50km's. I think I've got the oil flow volume ok now with only a very light blue-ness behind the bike. Hard accel stil leaves a cloud but I'm not willing to set my pump any lower than it is.
Anyway, the nr 6 plugs seem to be staying clean where 8's, 9's and 10's have let me down. I had a good run with B9EG, a plug that looks like the IX plugs, a thin little wire-like electrode. I suppose the spark temprature was hotter on these than the copper core ECM. The ECM plugs did'nt even last 25km and had me limping home on one cyl with less power than a 50cc.
At midrange the back cyl has a richness that sometimes momentarily kills it but top-end both cyls are running very good. Float level was too low on the front and you could feel the power drop away as it leaned out during a long WOT blast, plug chop confirmed this too.
SO, after some work, top end seems to now be in the stoic mark, midrange is kinda ok and bottom range sux major. All these problems wer taken care of when I tested the nr 6 plugs. They are also "P" plugs which means they have a protruding electrode. I've measured the clearance that the higher electrode front has from the piston face and it's ok, no collision risk.
What were those ratio's again? Three outward turns on the airscrew equals one slow-jet size down? The exhaust pulses at idle feel strong (thus rich, correct?) and closing the fuel tap for a moment, letting it burn the float chamber fuel, creates a leaning condition. This sends the rpm at idle to a max of 8000 after begining to drop away. Opening the tap again restores the situation to it's previous condition. I think theres a ghost in my engine or something cuz I've had all the jets replaced with new ones that are supposed to be stock sizes but no-go. Experimentation with hotter plugs is just an experiment.
The barrels' nikasil were re-done about 1000-2000km's ago for the first time ever since new along with thew pistons, rings and bearings. Could this have anything to do with my problem? I didnt own the bike before this major overhaul so I cannot compare, but I dont think it should add to the issue.
Well the bike was designed to run properly n the BR9ECM's, and if it isn't then I'd personally try to find out why rather than change something else to correct the bad running.
Maybe it's got an 'interesting' tune, maybe the compression is low, maybe the power jets are blocked and the mains massive to compensate, maybe the coils aren't good or the cable connections dirty, maybe it has a partly blocked fuel filter...
Dunno, but unless you find out what's what with the state of tune then I'd suggest setting everything back to standard.
But that's just me! _________________ MC21SP Plaything
BMW F800GS Bumblebee
Triumph 9551 Daytona Big boys toy
FJ1100 Sporting relic
GTS1000 oddball
OK,
Compression tests good,
All jets (including PJ) are new and open,
Entire fuel plumbing has been replaced,
Tank filter checked and cleaned (ther wasnt any real clogging though),
Pipes have been de-coked (caustic soda),
Power valves loose and set to 60% open (servo controller is not working)
Coils have not been checked, how do you properly check them?
No battery (yet)
Sorry if I'm wrong ,but should you not fix the power valve servo and fit a new battery first ? As you will not get the power throughout the rev range with a fixed valve nor a battery ?
Power is not the issue howl, I have a problem with getting the stoic values right thru the entire rev range as like its supposed to be.
Update;
Ive experimented with smaller slow jets and my problem seems to be heading in the right direction. Replaced the BP6E-S with BR9ECM plugs and testing continues.
Has someone raised the needles before you've ever been in there?
That and the slow jets is what I would check out.
And haven't I read that if you're going to pin the power valves, you should pin them all the way open ????? _________________ MC21
04 NSR50R
93 CBR F2
98 CBR F3 track bike
95 VFR750
89 FL400R Pilot
90 FZR 4/600
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