I am in the process of fitting a TYGA tail to my 21. I bought it 2nd hand
I was wondering if anyone has a photo on how they have mounted the loom to the subframe. I have a pretty good idea on how i am going to run it, but would like to see how others have done it incase there is a better way. In terms of rear brake resivour, fuse box and the red and white plugs.
Also, i see on the TYGA site, in the brand new kit, there is a flat pannel that is like a circle with a square section that comes off it. I dont have it. Does is bolt up underneath as an inner guard ? I guess i can make one from a carbon sheet of something if that is its purpose
Any help or idea (pics if you can) would be appreciated.
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Winning isn't everything, but loosing isn't anything

Check the tyga site for the various builds they have done. Mine is similar to theirs. Trick seems to be to keep everything in the seat area below the top of the subframe with the loom run tight agaisnt the outer LHS side of the subframe. The black panel is actually a corrgugated plastic flat sheet that is bent into shape. It doesnt bolt into place but is more of a friction fit/underlap with the tail. I am thinking about making up a non-structural glass piece to replace this with that would bolt into place.

I'll try for pics tonight.

Cheers

Thanks mates. I'll have a look there.
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Winning isn't everything, but loosing isn't anything

Personally I think its worth checking how the rectifier is mounted up, if the back surface isnt securely mounted againt the subframe then it can lead to overheating of the rectifier, which then leads to blown bulbs and knackered battery. Its probably worth making a metal plate to mount it onto to, the small amount of effort it much better than the cost of a new battery and rectifier. I think the rectifier uses the frame as a heat sink.

I bet 85% of rectifier failures on NSRs are down to the tyga tail being fitted, I had this, I think Maxim had this, anyone else?

My MC28 with a Tyga tail had the rectifier hanging off the sub-frame with a zip-tie when I first got it. I have since welded up a set of brackets to hold it between the rails of the sub-frame. The rectifier runs very warm, I have been told due to the HRC harness I have. I stacked a computer CPU heat sink and electric fan on top to aid in the cooling. Seems to work fine. My bum stays nice and warm too! Heat reflective tape in the underside of the tail helped being the temp down a bit.
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Andre E. Benguerel
1996 Honda NSR250R
Daijiro Kato/Fortuna Replica #74

2000 Honda RS250R (NX5)
2008 Honda RS250R (NXA)
AFM Expert #430

The subframe I have is about 1 month old. It has the rectifier bolted to a metal bar running beneath the seat. The back of the rectifier is hard up against the plate.

Cheers

Canuck: Is the plate similar to the standard plate that the rectifier is bolted onto on an original subframe? You want something that will transfer as much heat off it as much as possible.

From memory its a bar approximately 25-35mm wide and 2-4mm thick. Its welded onto the two cross beams beneath the seat. Will need to check to confirm. . . . as I am now not sure if it is hard against the plate or not

I think you will find that the nuts (welded to plate) it bolts onto are raised on the side where the recfifier is bolted on, therefore the rectifier sits flat againts the nuts but there is a gap between the back surface of the rectifier and the plate that it appears to be bolted up to. It really needs a flush fit againt the plate rather than the nuts.

Hope that makes sense and maybe worth everyone with a tyga tail to check how theres is mounted. This may be enough if it has hard contact to the nuts but I moved mine so it was flush against the plate after a rectifier failed on my road bike. Personally I just drilled two more holes in the plate and moved it along so it was no longer using the welded on nuts and the back was flush against the plate..

All,
Mounting the rectifier onto a chep and easy to get heat sink ( from Maplin or Radio shack) then mounting this directly to the frame wil be much more effective, Between the rectifier use "heat sink" compount to ensure maximum heat transfer.
I have done this on my RC 30 and one of my Ducati's to overcome reg/rectifier problems. The unit runs very cool with this arrangement.
ALL of them use the fram emounting as a heat sink from the manufacturer.
BR
Dvae.

The new style Tyga sub-frame seems to provide a mount for the rect. Mine did not. My RS250 has the rect. bolted directly to the frame, acting as a heat sink. The racing rect. on my Ducati bolts to a alloy plate that has a vent directed at it. Obviously keeping the rect. cool is a good thing.

With that in mind I am rethinking the mounting I fabricated. Perhaps an alloy plate would serve as a better cooling surface and keep my arse from gettting so hot. I need to mod. the sub-frame regardless as the tank mount bracket is off, angle wise, in relation to how the tank sits.
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Andre E. Benguerel
1996 Honda NSR250R
Daijiro Kato/Fortuna Replica #74

2000 Honda RS250R (NX5)
2008 Honda RS250R (NXA)
AFM Expert #430

took a close look at mine last night and as watfordhorn has already pointed out the rectifier does sit about 3-4mm below the bar as the nuts do hold it off the plate. a heat sink or ali plat bolted between the subframe and the rectifier would seem to be the way to go.

Yeah i am going to do the same. Get a piece of aluminium between the rec and subframe. Im also going to get some heatsinks stuck to it as well. I think this will be ehough to keep it cool.
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Winning isn't everything, but loosing isn't anything

Canuck: I salvaged heaps of vaiours shaped aluminium components from work. It will make excellent heatsink material if you need some.

Thanks for that. May take you up when I get back in the country in about 6 weeks. I do have some 4mm ali plate left over from a 7 replica I built that may be ok.