well i completely lost my headlights last week, first i lost my high beams now i've lost my low beams, blinkers and horn work. ripped apart the contraption but all the wiring looks good.

checked out the wiring diagram which mentions a headlight relay, which i think might be the cause of the problem

just trying to find out what it looks like and i stumbled across this

http://nsr250.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4331&highlight=headlight+relay

now the question is, is that the block that sits next to the front coil ignitor or is it somewhere else?

does anyone have pics?

is it safe to say that i can use the relay from a mc28? i couldnt find the part in the parts manual though to see if they were the same

any help appreciated

Well answered my own question. It is the headlight relay and they're interchangeable from mc28 to mc21.

Got my high beams back, just gotta figure out why my lows ain't working now.

does the NSR suffer from cold solder joins ( i think thats what you call it when a soldered point goes bad? )

i put it all back together and tested it but lost my high beams again. ripped it apart and cut off the plastic sleeve that covers the wires, the wires look ok but when i move them around high beams come on and off intermittently this only happens when all the switches are still in the cover

when i remove the switches from the cover i dont get jack

from the wiring diagram bu/w is the wire that goes to the headlight relay is this what would power it as well? i think out of the cover all of it should still work which lead me to the cold solder join problem, so im thinking if i resolder it "should" work...

anyone have any ideas?

What it does "suffer" from, like the CBR, VFR (non uk one) and RVF400 is running 35w headlight bulbs just wired directly though a switch, not a 55w (normal H4 H/L bulb) and not via a relay like most export bikes. Melting the main beam switch (i.e. the little red button) is common on the 400's.
I'd check there.
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thanks fonty, my bikes using the 55w bulb, i've checked the switches which all looks ok no melting, the switches im talking about are in the actual headlight/indicator assembly

i've tested the bulbs in the car which work fine

so somethings stuffed up

just dont know what tho and can't really be fkd to fix it at the moment its giving me the shits

so i've put everything back together without working headlights

i multimetered it tho and im getting about 8-9volts through the red/blk wire in the assembly, chucked it on the trickle charger to see if it made a difference but nothing

whats the red switch/button you talk about i dont have anything red apart from the kill switch? do you have a pic?

*forgot to mention that i had already replaced the headlight even tho it wasnt blown, but didnt check it this time round will do it 2morro... maybe

My mistake, it's not red is it?
It's the little push button main beam/head light button on the left hand switch gear.
That switch melted on both my RVF's and my CBR400, the result being the contact doesn't get made and the circuit doesn't complete.
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thanks fonty i know what your talking about now, it looks good still but i'll need to take a closer look at it

cheers

just getting around to fixing my headlights and all this other sh*t for the bike but was thinking would this work?

recently saw someone who had the same problem with their headlights and they just wired in their own switch powered from the battery to work em

i've bought myself a toggle switch which has 3 clicks and was thinking this is how i would wire it to run the lights:



1 in the diagram would be off
2 in the diagram would be low beams
3 in the diagram would be high beams

was thinking of sourcing the light plugs to mod and then splicing into the green wire for my power supply... but im no beginner in electronics and was wondering what everyone elses thought on this would be.

My thought will be... you still won't have any lights!

Green is earth/ground. Where are you getting your power from?!
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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bloody idiot... i thought it was 12v cos it went everywhere

well i guess i need another toggle switch then, was thinking of getting 12v either directly from the battery or splice into a 12v source

now i need to think about the diagram again

thanks andy

This should work:


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thanks for that andy, but i dont really understand it

went back to the electronics store tho and they showed me how to set it up

back to the same diagram i have attached, the points at 1 2 and 3 can be bridged together to make it stronger

2 = 12v
1= hi beam
3= lo beam

negative green from the bulbs go to earth and i should be sweet, will work on this next week as i have no more time this week and feeling lazy, plus i gotta buy some electrical wiring for it still

will post again when i sort my sh*t out

finally getting round to fixing my sh*t...

and havent bothered with the switch idea, going a different route and was after opinions

what im doing:

running wire from a switched 12v source directly to the headlight low beam which works, only going to run the 1 light.

problem:

noticed that it drains very quickly drops point 1 volt every 5-10 seconds or something. bike wasnt running though

question:

will running it this way whilst the engine is on and running drain the battery? when the bike is switched off, the source to the light is also off. i have not noticed any volts going through the source whilst switch is off but have a concern that i will drain/kill the battery this way...

any help appreciated!

cheers

Rnning the lights without the enigne on will kill the battery - it's not big enough to cope.

How often do you need lights but no motor though?
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as long as you remember to switch it off when the bike bike isn't running, it should be fine!

The best thing to do is to test it out.....get the bike running, switch the light on and see if the volts still stay up.