Hi,

I recently put together an NSR250 with tyga 300 barells. Ran it in and got a two stroke mechanic to make sure the carbs weren't running too lean or rich. The bike is set up a bit on the rich side for now and pulls pretty well. I haven't had the chance to dyno it but have done some plug chops and they're nice and brown.

I'm wondering what other peoples experiences have been with the 300 kit. It has a lot of bottom end power and the powerband comes on at about 7,500rpm. After which it hits really hard at 10,500 to 13,000rpm. Unfortunately, when you change at 12,000rpm it goes back to about 8,000rpm where it feels noticably docile compared to the hit at 10,500rpm +. Going up a hill and changing gears after hiting 13,000 feels like you've put the brakes on.

I thought the 300 kit gave you more hit down low, and while it does make the bike ridable below 8,000rpm the powerband seems to be up very high. I'm running the TYGA kit as I mentioned, full TYGA GP system and two 2cm diameter holes cut into a standard airbox lid. My question is have other people experience this? What needs to be done to my bike to get it to accelerate more seamlessly and not die after a gear change? Finally, where are my 3rd gear wheelstands that are often talked about? (or even second)
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

What sprockets are you running ? I think your ratio might be out...

I don't have a 300 kit, but my experience with the 250 is not the same as yours. That and looking at the dyno curve on the Tyga site would suggest that it's not right. All that said, you are talking about feel, which is obviously relative to you.

I'd get it on a dyno and have a look at the power curve. Whilst dyno's are different (blah blah blah), the curve should give you some factual basis for comparison.

Thanks for the responses. I have been avoiding dynoing the bike due to cost and time factors, but it might have to be done. Regarding the gearing, what sprockets should it be running?
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

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Last edited by DifferentStrokes on Mon Sep 28, 2009 10:46 pm; edited 1 time in total

Well shyster, tell us what sprockets you have and then we take it from there ...

Hey mate

If you worried about dyno costs, and just want a power run, Pro Kawasaki in Ipswich have dyno runs for 30 dollars on saturday mornings. Bit of a hike i know, but cheep as if you can make it down.

It will give you an AFR reading as well which will help diagnose your problem (if there is one), but as shmokica said, the shape of the curve will tell you everything.
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Winning isn't everything, but loosing isn't anything

Checked out the gearing, 15/40.

I checked to make sure that the wire splice had been done and done correctly. Both the Gps and Pgm3 have been done.

Will check the rc valves are still adjusted. I adjusted them using the instructions in the tuning section. Let me know if it's any different with the 150 barells.

Thanks for the advice and will check out the dyno time idea.
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

Rc valves weren't out of adjustment much. Adjusted them and took it for a ride. Still no power till about 10k. I did notice, with the rc valves, they are opened at idle and don't close again until you get the revs up. I wlould have thought the rc valves would be 'closed' or in the low position at idle for take off ... So how should the rc valve behave?
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

thats what they do

They close again at 3000rpm.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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The cure of course is a reduction of cylinder volume by around 17%. I'm sure perfect running and performance will then be achieved.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Alzazorq wrote:What sprockets are you running ? I think your ratio might be out...

Whatever he's running a stock gearbox will still drop from 12000 rpm back to 8500 when he shift's from 1st into 2nd.
If you want to close up the ratio's (2nd-3rd is quite a gap too) then you need a close ratio box.
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Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread

StephenRC45 wrote:
The cure of course is a reduction of cylinder volume by around 17%.

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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.

Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.

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Umm yeah thanks for insight
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.