Yes, I have tried the standard ignition, a lightened rotor in total loss mode and a Tyga total loss. The Tyga one is best, plus it's much lighter and therefore gives the crank an easier life at high revs. I use the Tyga rotor on my dry bike and the lightened standard one on the wet.
A second a lap improvement, no. If you could buy a second a lap for £80, racing would be no fun. The rich would win everything.
How much life do you get out of a battery Dan? Mine (on a new and freshly charged battery) doesn't seem to last that long, a few test runs up and down the bypass had it so low it was barely running, not cycling the PV's properly etc.
OK it was probably more runs than I think and includes warm up's etc. and it was left overnight too but I'm not so convinced total loss is worth the hassle.
I put the battery on my AccuMate charger tonight and it took way over 2 1/2 hours to charge it up to full, thats a long time to be running a genny for and longer than there is between races if you do both classes......... _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
The battery needs trickle charging in between races. I have completed a days racing without, but by the end of a day's racing the bike will misfire as the battery isn't strong enough to provide a full spark.
Just reading this thread and does anyone know what weight you can get the standard flywheel down to but still retain a charging system for the road?
You see them on Yahoo Japan from time to time but never quite sure if these are professionaly modified or just someone with a lathe in the garge? _________________ MC21 300
Aprilia RS250 track bike
Mine's about as light as you can get it... Steve was cringing as I was pushing him to take more off it!
I can't remember weighing it, but to be honest it's not a huge amount off stock in the big scheme of things. You can do a lot worse than just get one from TYGA as and when they have them available; at least you know that will be modified sensibly!
Light flywheels certainly aren't the be-all and end-all for everyone. You need weight on the flywheel for torque out of the corners. Steve now runs a heavier flywheel on his F3 (I was able to out drag his F3 out of corners, despite the 6~7hp deficit at the time), Matt runs a heavier flywheel now even with the increased 300 torque, and even HRC increased the weight of the flywheels on the RS's over the years. Maybe a light flywheel would be OK on a track with long open sweeping corners, but how often do NSR's get on the track at Silverstone?!
The new ignition for mine will get a heavier "hybrid" flywheel, as the FIII one I have is just too light! Sure, they really make the motors "bing", but apart from sounding great, it's not necessarily the way to go in my opinion. _________________ Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM
Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.
Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.
Also some of the bad running of the bike might have been the front cylinder MJ bouncing around in the float bowl, not screwed into the emulsion tube _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
So if the track is tight and twisty should i keep the stock flywheel and if its a longer track with fast corners i should use a lightened flywheel . Am i correct ?
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