I fried another regulator on the way home from the Thundersprint. (I will attach photos of a gathering of 4 NSR's from Photobucket when I learn how)
I have a TYGA GP tail and understand there is a school of thought that this could be contributory.
I can't move it into the airflow due to the restrictions of the wiring looms lack of play.
I intend to rig up some vents in the plastic undertray thingy but think I can recall a thread where someone used a Hyabusa regulator or similar.
I just want a simple plug in replacement ( no soldering ).
How important is it to mach the stamped info on the body. Both my previous ones read SH633-12 (although one has 2.6 and the other has T8.D stamped under the main number)

Very grateful for any help
And any step by step guides for uploading from Photobucket too!
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if it had a tail - it would wag

I had the same problem not long after I installed the tyga tail. To me it appears to be the way it is mounted to the subframe (on two welded on nuts) which give no contact to the rear face of the regulator, therefore no way for frame to act as any kind of heatsink. I moved mine on both track and road bikes so that the rear face mounts up against the subframe and cut a section out of the undertray to allow air get to it.

Better still would be to install some kiind of proper heatsink under the regulator (maybe just between the frame and rectifier).

I have a tyga tail, and i have used the '2nut mount' because of loom restriction. I cut some steel and packed it under the reg so that the reg now has contact to the subframe. It works as the subframe does get warm. Touch wood it has lasted so far.
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Winning isn't everything, but loosing isn't anything

are you using a standard Honda reg?

You can but a heavy duty one for about £60 which has ally fins on the top to aid cooling.
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MC21SP - Roth-tax
CBR400 - track
MC21R - sold
MC21SP - sold

I bought a regulator, supposedly for a MC21. It has SH633-12 and below 2.4 stamped on it.
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Poul
"If Life Gets Boring, Risk It!"
MC21SE, KISS box
MC21SP, HRC box, racing loom

You might want to take a look at this...

http://www.nsr250.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7692

A picture search on SH633-12 gives you a lot of originals and newer substitutes

http://images.google.dk/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLJ,GGLJ:2009-08,GGLJ:en&q=sh633%2d12
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Poul
"If Life Gets Boring, Risk It!"
MC21SE, KISS box
MC21SP, HRC box, racing loom

I replaced my last one with this:-


http://www.electrosport.com/shopping_regulator_rectifiers/prod_esr580.html

It was a recomendation from Scott Vorreyer on the NSR mailing list.

you could try running some vacuum cleaner hose from the front of the fairing to the reg/rec to duct some cool air over it too? sure the missus won't miss it if she hoovers as much as mine! lol

Thank you all. Got offered a finned one for £65 but am trying the heat sink plate between the body and sub frame first. Only because I got one for a tenner. Spend the rest if I have to.

Vacuum cleaner trick would have worked for sure though!
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if it had a tail - it would wag

Hey Manny, i just replaced my RR, and incidentally,the battery...

Now, im a bit worried, my old (brand new) battery boiled due to the faulty RR. so i installed a new RR and Battery (warrantied)

It seems similar symptoms have arisen, my new battery is showing signs of boiling. With bike running theres 14.9 +/-V , wheres recommended is max.14.8. I can only assume it is creeping over 15V when im out riding..

The old battery boiled sufficiently to cause a bulge, secreting acid and hissing. the new battery now has a slight bulge after 2 rides.

I seriously wont get another battery under warranty, (maybe) and dont want to blow another one in any case, what to do??
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I'd start a new thread to refresh the subject with your particular problem if I were you. I'm a bit out of my depth investigating electrical problems. I'm sure It will have happend to someone some time.
Sounds like the regulator is not doing its job though.
Good luck.
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if it had a tail - it would wag

When my rectifier failed on my MC28 it boiled two batteries (a long ride home from beulieu with minimal lights in the rain was no fun).

It was like yours running at too high voltage. What does it go up to when you rev the bike? the idea of the RR is to regulate the voltage and not over charge the battery.

I replaced the rectifier and battery and its been fine ever since.

edited, gonna re check now
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one option is to install a ball bearing based PC cooling fan onto the heat sink. Don't use a plastic bush one as that will die in no time.