I want to dismantle the frame so I can powdercoat the frame and swinger. Not sure how to get it apart without forcing it. Have booth nuts off, left and right. Wheel is off. Not sure how the sprocket hub comes off? Is it threaded or key or what?

Any advice appreciated.
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94 mc28 SE

The sprocket carrier is on a spline. Once the nut is removed and the splinces clean it will slide off.

You can then pull the hub out of the bearing carrier from the right hand side.

After that remove the large circlip on the right hand side and remove the caliper hanger.

Once the rear swinging arm pinch bolt is undone the bearing carrier will pull out of the swinging arm from the left.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Thank you for the quick reply RC.

So can I use a gear puller to pull it off? I was just concerned because it looks like the thread goes right up to if not into where the sprocket carrier sits.
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94 mc28 SE

Once the nut is off it should pull off with your hands.

The spline is bigger than the threaded section so yes it looks like it goes inside. Dont be concerned though.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Defiantly won’t come off by hand. Gave it a bit of a leaver with a couple of tyre irons and it didn’t budge. didnt go to hard coz i didnt want to damage it. I have cleaned the thread section coz there was a bit of oxidation and muck on them but that all I can see. i cant see any splines though
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94 mc28 SE

Page 180 of the Online MC28 English Workshop Manual has a great exploded diagram of the rear swingarm/hub/caliper assembly. The manual is also available as a "hard copy" (printed) version from here.

You will need to become a Supporting Member to access the Online version of the English Workshop Manual.
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.

Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.

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that was an awsome idea thanks andy. Done and Done. But it wasnt on page 180. the book only goes to 170. pg 136 did the trick though

Still cant see the splines but will trust they are there as in the diagram and use a gear puller to get it off. thanks
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94 mc28 SE

Ahh, maybe because I have Admin rights on it, so I have access to extra pages (similar to Ti). You'll notice that as a Carbon Member some of the pages are still restricted.

Thank you for the choosing to support, and make sure you make full use of the extra forum areas!
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.

Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.

Check us out on Facebook! Please "like" our page!

Shall do. Thank you for an awsome site.
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94 mc28 SE

Ok thank guys got it off.

BUT boy did it fight me the whole way. Ended up using a gear puller to get it off. Broke the first one i tried with but the second one got it off. Will give everything a service so it will be in better condition in future. thankfully all the suspension bearings and busings seem to be in very good condition, well greased etc.
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94 mc28 SE

StephenRC45 wrote:Once the nut is off it should pull off with your hands.

Stephen, this is usually the case, but all depends on how many years of muck and crud have got in there.

I've had a couple that required some very interesting (and heavy) tooling to remove them.

I asumed most MC28's had never been anywhere so would come apart with relitive ease.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Pro-Arms attract nasty stuff.

Ok, it wasn't an NSR, t'was an NC35 in fact, but once I'd wrestled the hub assy out we found a nest inside. Bits of chewed up newspaper etc. Rather amusing.

See, now a nest in a MC28 I could understand.
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If I have to take the carbs off once more...

Poor old MC28 owners......nothing but grief from the hardcore MC18/21 brigade.

Did you know that you can get half a hp at the back wheel with just a few (free) mods to the proarm hub?

Pull the hub apart and feel the amount of drag from the seals in that hub. It's shocking. On my old racer we carefully whizzed the seal lips away to get rid of the friction and used ultra light grease in the bearings. But then again, we had the hub apart after every race for cleaning so maybe not worth the hassle.

I know it needs all the help it can get, but it's just some useful info for anyone actually daft enough to want to race one.