Hi guys , Does anyone here have a picture or measurements of their radiator they use with the ram air box . I plan on having a new radiator made soon to accomodate future improvements .Thanks , Neal

neal i could have a look at mine for you when im at the garage next,hopefully it will this week sometime.im running mine with the nsr world open airbox at the minute,so my rs rad is fastened where the standard rad goes.should only need brackets to lower it a few mil to fit the scoop,will get pics as well if you want
_________________
ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

Neal,

I am using the F3 radiator (NF5 RS250) with my JHa pressurized airbox. I made some simple aluminium brackets to lower it for clearence. Its a bit of a tight fit but works well.

If you'd like photos, reply to scottvor@yahoo.com

Scott

Thank you for all your help guys , i need to replace my rad as it has seen beter days . I will contact asap .

Thanks , Neal

Scott , i hope my message comes through .

Neal, not sure if this is of use, but here is how the rad fits for the RS250 NXA Ram air.

The standard set-up has the air intake routed around the side of the rad (you can see where its shaped) and into the airbox.



For the 'A Kit' Airbox, the intake is routed straight over the top of the rad, and it has to be 'shaped' accordingly!!


_________________
Rich
MC21 Track Bike / RS250 NF5 'Spencer', NX5 'Cadalora' & NXA 'Aoyama' / RS500 / Two Brothers Racing RC30

thanks RichG ,
Do they make rads with those bends on top or is that a home modifacation. The kit i will use will enter on top of the rad .

Great help guys !

was that rad altered with my favorite tool..............lump hammer!!!

Not sure about the lump hammer..... I find mole grips are the only real tool you need.

Hey Scott, you still got my super trick airbox system tucked away. I'm suprized the boys at Tyga weren't bugging you to send it over to see if they might develop it into their next product.

Or HRC for that matter. One for the Motegi Museum.

Neal wrote:thanks RichG ,
Do they make rads with those bends on top or is that a home modifacation. The kit i will use will enter on top of the rad .

Great help guys !

Neal,

to answer your question, there is an A-Kit radiator available from HRC that is made with the top shaped to allow for the air intake.

Other option is to get a standard radiator modified. I guess you could go the route in the above picture, or have it modified.
_________________
Charles Gallant

Has that just had the top few layers of radiator core removed Charles, or have they extended the filler and thermostat bits??

It has the top few layers removed. Knowing how this radiator works, I can say that you could cut a good amount more out and still be okay. in 90 degree temps, I am still putting 3 or more strips of tape on the radiator to get it up to temps and stay there.

Charles, I do prefer your rad to mine, which does seem to have been modified by 'lump hammer'!!

Talking of trick rads, this is an RSW style rad, check out the extra portions at the bottom!


_________________
Rich
MC21 Track Bike / RS250 NF5 'Spencer', NX5 'Cadalora' & NXA 'Aoyama' / RS500 / Two Brothers Racing RC30

Thanks guys ,

Rich - how does the water circulate around those extra bottom pieces ? Sorry if i have missed something

I will have a new rad made with these idea's .
What is a decent core thickness to use ?
I too have to use tape on my rad when i race long circuit .

Thanks , Neal

Holy moly........ is that the rad HRC use when racing the RS250 across the Sahara

racer38 wrote:
Holy moly........ is that the rad HRC use when racing the RS250 across the Sahara

Power = heat... when you can generate well over 100hp from 250cc (without a turbo!) you're going to need to keep it cool somehow!!

However, 70+hp NSR's will run quite sufficiently on OEM rads if the bodywork/ducting is correct, although you do need to keep the bike moving to generate airflow across the matrix; the F3 rads have a thicker (twin) core, but more often than not need taping up to retain temperature. RS rads are generally triple-core.

The HARC Pro ramair kit I have simply uses the OEM radiator and two small "drop-plates" to swing the top of the rad down and out about 20mm. I think Dan posted some pictures of his similar setup here before. RS rads on the NSR are overkill, but do look the business. Even on RS's they often need taping up as the systems are just too efficient. If you're running 40+ degrees AAT though, with massive humidity (like the tropics for example), then a big rad is certainly helpful. What are the general temps you encounter like in South Africa?

Remember, an RS rad is already substantially bigger (deeper, wider, and thicker!) than an NSR rad -- then to move or modify it to get a scoop past it is just yet more hassle! If you can use the HARC Pro (and Jha) approach and just drop the OEM rad down and forward then it's got to be worth trying first in my opinion. StephenRC45's F-III ran a modified OEM rad for quite some time before he was able to find the correct HRC item, and that never suffered cooling issues. There aren't many NSR's about that match his motors output! I even seem to recall Martin77's 350YPVS powered NSR only runs a stock rad too, and that was knocking on the door of 70hp too! (Although only briefly before the crank protested and went on strike! )

An RS rad will likely cost you in the region of £400, and a custom one probably 50% more on top of that... there's a lot you can do with £600 if you're happy for now with the cooling performance of an OEM rad!
_________________
Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

Please keep all responses to Forum posts on the Forum so that others may benefit.

Please DO NOT PM me for technical advice. My time is precious, and you will probably receive a faster response on the Forum anyway.

Check us out on Facebook! Please "like" our page!