Hi I have had this honda nsr250 mc21 1990 for the last 10 yrs. If I ride it every day it starts up easy next day, if I dont start it for a couple of days or week or weeks as I use car then it does not start easily.
It would need about 10 or 20 kicks before it fires up. when it runs it runs fine and I can feel the power in it.
So can someone please please help me. I like this bike and want to keep it.
only thing I can find is the kick is very light as if there is not enough power ie compression or some sort of electric fault?
The bike was rebuilt back in 1998 as it was thrashed by a racer and ever since this problem persisted.
I had it checked by a couple of m/bike shops no one could find any thing wrong with and now I have stopped spending money for nothing. I keep the plugs clean and replace them when necessary. I know enough about the bike to have done what I can, including mixtures, carb cleaning, throttle adjustment etc
I would recommend a new battery and optimate to keep it in a good state of charge while not in use. Also you might want to check your charging circuit to make sure your stator hasn't started to break down. _________________ "............should have bought a Honda"
jimmy13 wrote:I would recommend a new battery and optimate to keep it in a good state of charge while not in use. Also you might want to check your charging circuit to make sure your stator hasn't started to break down.
Thanks very much for reply jimmy, appreciated
firstly it is a new battery and I have done the normal tests etc and it seems to be fine
I had a feeling it could be something like the stator you mention, something little as the problem is kind of abstract. But i have never had the chance to get to the charging circuit in detail enough, so it's new to me. Have you any tips to make it easy? thanks
I wish mine only took 10 or 20 kicks... it's always been an absolute tw*t to start, right from day one, and even with the new motor! I think it has a sense of humour, because it's hardest to start in front of anyone passing/watching... seriously!
Bloody thing!
As jimmy13 says though, a very common cause is the battery, but another is a crank seal (usually the LHS behind the flywheel) on the way out. It draws air, lowers primary compression, and makes the the mixture lean. _________________ Andy.
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I've seen bikes you can start by hand; Fontyyy had one! Another was an MC18 I worked on for a guy in Florida. Could just whip the kickstart lever out and crank it by hand! Mine would have your arm off!
I can start one of mine by hand,hot or cold!A freshly rebuilt motor recently appeared from the rebuild fairy and started after about seven kicks hope this keeps up,I have faith!!
Once you've checked all the easy things, check your idle jets aren't blocked, air screw settings are good. Make sure your carbs are seated properly and the inlet rubbers aren't perished.
It may just be that you have a bike with personality
nxrsr20 wrote:Once you've checked all the easy things, check your idle jets aren't blocked, air screw settings are good. Make sure your carbs are seated properly and the inlet rubbers aren't perished.
It may just be that you have a bike with personality
Hi thanks very much for your help could you please help me a bit more with how to find out WHAT AND WHERE are these poxy idle jets, air screws and inlet rubber seals are. many many thanks. joel
I had problems leaving my bike standing for a while and the simplest and best fix without messing with the carbs is to replace the fuel tap. When I did that my bike starts 1st or 2nd kick.
Alternatively you can spend plenty of time setting the float heights and replacing the float valves and seats
If the seals are gone because you don't run it enough, the bike won't run properly once you've started it.
The thing is, if the fuel leaks down through the fuel tap and then through the carbs, there will be plenty of petrol working it's way down through the lower cylinder and eventually into the exhausts. I had a pint or so of fuel jet out of my bike after leaving it standing too long. so I reckon the seals won't dry out as long as there's plenty of fuel in the tank _________________ Why do things simply when you can complicate them
jimmy13 wrote:I would recommend a new battery and optimate to keep it in a good state of charge while not in use. Also you might want to check your charging circuit to make sure your stator hasn't started to break down.
Hi thanks jimmy for your help. can you please tell me where would I find motor on this bike as I think stator is somewhere on the motor correct me if I Am incorrect please. thanks again.
RobH wrote:I had problems leaving my bike standing for a while and the simplest and best fix without messing with the carbs is to replace the fuel tap. When I did that my bike starts 1st or 2nd kick.
Alternatively you can spend plenty of time setting the float heights and replacing the float valves and seats
If the seals are gone because you don't run it enough, the bike won't run properly once you've started it.
The thing is, if the fuel leaks down through the fuel tap and then through the carbs, there will be plenty of petrol working it's way down through the lower cylinder and eventually into the exhausts. I had a pint or so of fuel jet out of my bike after leaving it standing too long. so I reckon the seals won't dry out as long as there's plenty of fuel in the tank
Thanks for your help, Is fuel tap the thing we talking about is under the tank with which you can turn it on or off or something at the other end on the carbs needs replacing? If it is on off thing then I can test it whether its leaking or not by disconnecting the other end when its in off position. The other thing,when bike is running/warm and you stop start it starts first kick or the second sometimes. cheers
My first NSR was always a git to start, used to give me that Basil Fawlty feeling.
My current one will start with my hand but if its stood for a while it can take a few kicks to get the fuel through. Normally I crack the float bowl drains until the petrol comes through, starts okay then, you will need a long thin flat blade screwdriver to get to them.
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