Dear NSR Forum Gurus

I am located at http://www.zic.com.cn/zicen/ and have picked-up an old NSR'87? MC16 that will fire on only One Cylinder. I can switch/swap the input leads to the 2X CDIs and transfer the nice purple~blue spark from the up-to-down cyclinder and vice-versa. The battery and plugs are fresh and it will sometimes now run on one-cylinder about 1 minute and go kaput. The Tacho revs like its ok in the circuit too. Carbs have been cleaned too. This clues me to then check the Ignitor pick-up pulser trigger coil?

Is there a simple procedure using an Ohmmeter to find the value range or test-light to get a flash pulse or some side-of-the-road method that is reliable/accurate. I do have a salvaged set of trigger coils and attending fly-wheel and stator from a junk engine of slightly smaller diameter and with [2X] TWO signal nibs of about the same degree-width and would hope that I can substitute this complete set-up from engine number # MC16E 1136278 of indeterminate year model, IF the originals pulse-coil[s] are defective.

I assume that the PGM? Box in the tail-piece only controls the RC-valves or please steer-me to some explaination as i am new to these particular bikes in general.

Any Helpful Advice/Wisdom is greatly appreciated since as a newbie/freebie, I do not seem to be able to access the online WorkShop Manual from China....

Thanks again, Terry Linebarger

Admin: URL edited to English version.

Hello, if you are swapping the cdi unit and the spark is following it then I'd say the cdi is goosed. They are a weak spot on the mc16!

If you do a search there is a thread on how to repair them.
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More **** two strokes than you can shake a **** stick at.

I have previously read all of the MC16 FAQ/Search threads about the cold-solder joints of some CDI componant such as the "Do Not Despair" one and I will excavate into one-unit as a last-resort since its stuck-down in a dark/dank underground parking garage, at the moment.
I have been saving one groovy new 'multi-spark' CDI box spares from CSBK150ccGP[Bucket] that I can substitute as the connector syles are identical, so why not try it for spark, though the advance curve is un-known as yet.
I live in China and I get these semantical lingo-problems on a daily basis: ".... I can switch/swap the INPUT LEADS INto the EXISTING 2X CDIs and THIS ACTION CHANGES THE SOURCE OF TRIGGER PULSE, WHICH transferS the nice purple~blue spark FROM ONE CYLINDER TO THE OTHER....". Now then, the kind reply starts to confuse my early senility with a paradoxical conundrum: "....if you are "swapping" the cdi unit and the spark is following it then I'd say the cdi is goosed...."
Ok, let's see: I am Not "removing" the existing Old CDI Boxes and 'replacing' it with another NOS CDI to Swap-OUT... I am simply 'changing' the input sources [wires] to the same [left-and-right?] CDI Boxes with matching old Ign.Coils for each box, in-situ.
So, IF I "Trade" the Ignitor Input Wires going INTO either one of the CDI boxes [of which the one-wire solo/alone in the double-molex seems to be the respective ignition trigger pulser] and then that one [L-or-R CDI Box] will then make an Ok Spark to its respective ^top^or \bottom/cylinder.
This repeatitive experiment [done-in-the-dark!] indicates to my remaining naive brain-cell that BOTH of the CDI Boxes can make a nice blue-ish Sparks and run either the up-or-down cylinder, for a little bit.
Now, i want to feed 'good' signals to Both of the old CDI Boxes so that maybe the dang thang will actually run on TWO cylinders and i can blast out of the Temple of Gloom into the fresh sunshine and rescue me old 250NotSoRight to hoon-it back to its natural habitat, whew!, safe at the race-track here.
This poor-thing has been 'maintained' by chinese tractor mechanics and I am trying to return it to its natural condition of dottering glorage, but it still remains a crippled poster-child searching for its faithful pet "Sparky", sniff~sniff and so I have to reach-out via the E-beacon, beseeching the winged Super Heros at NSR-World HQ to use their fantastic mental powerz-of-deduction to help save a pitiful forgotten-relic as it crossed-over into the bamboo-boneyard of misty oblivion ... ???? [cue: sappy muzix]

It's common for the guys to suggest swapping over ignition coils later models where an intermittent spark becomes an issue, and most often the first thing suggested is to swap CDI packs on the MC16 when such problems arise, too.

Your post was most likely skimmed and misread, Terry. It wasn't the easiest of posts to read, hence why I not only added the English URL, but also broke the single paragraph up into something easier on the eye!

Physically swapping the CDI packs naturally eliminates them from the equation if the problem remains; the MC16 guys usually then move on and do the same thing with the coils. (You've already stated it has a new battery, the carbs have been cleaned etc., else those things would've been high on the list of "to-do's".)

Without digging into the manual, which I don't have to hand (plus it's 5am and I'm not going routing around for it at this hour!) I can't remember off-hand if the the MC16 fires both coils at once (like the old Yamaha parallel LC's did I believe), so purely swapping the connectors may not actually have the effect you are expecting. The good spark may indeed "move" to the other cylinder, and without load look OK, but once the plugs are refitted and the motor run it may be badly timed and consequently once again result in poor running. The NSR isn't exactly known for it's retina-burning spark at the plugs in daylight, so I wouldn't personally just rely on it "looking good" when swapping connectors! I would do as 2Smoke suggests, and physically swap the CDI packs over and then see what happens.

If swapping the CDI's has no effect, then before looking for meter readings from the pulsers, check the physical condition of their wiring. I've seen plenty of freyed pulser coil wires, on all models of NSR. It's not a common fault per se, but failed pulser coils have been reported a few times in recent years, however I don't recall anyone who's come back and said they had ascertained it was actually a faulty coil. I personally suspect the corrosion or chaffing of the pulser wiring in most cases where the CDIs and ignition coils have been found to be good.

I seem to recall an instance too recently where corrosion or dirt either on the flywheel or the bottom of a pickup was causing problems too.

I trust you have good compression on both cylinders?

*If any of that's waffle it's because it's now 5:30am and I should be tucked up in bed!
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Andy.
NSR-WORLD.COM

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are you using new spark plugs? and is the carb set up correctly? ie float height etc?
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it wouldn't be fun if it was easy!

"..>>>> The battery and plugs are fresh <<<<and>>>> The Carbs have been cleaned too <<<< This clues me to then check the Ignitor pick-up pulser trigger coil?
I can move the ONE functioning/working spark from the up cylinder to the down cylinder by moving the iginitor/pulser/pick-up/signal generator coil leads/wires plug-in connectors from one CDI box circuit to the other CDI box, from the left one to the right one and vice versa to-and-fro to move the good spark at will while there is always one BAD/ no Spark too.
To remove any un-known concern about the carbies, next, i will just inject the dead-cyclinder with carb cleaner and see if it lights-up/pops better, just very occasionally on start-up attempts the dead-cylinder will hot-fart or backfire, maybe. That trick did work momentarilly once before when their was an orange spark to that cyclinder.
Compression, Spark, Fuel.... My first priority is to see Two blue/strong sparks, this is where i am stuck. I am seeking a Ohm-age number quote [I.E.: 50~350] for the expressed value of the ignition pick-up coils or even a relative Voltage produced-per-kick so that i can go the next-step beyond simply looking for an open-or-shorted condition of the pulse generator coils, as one of them has been regularly exposed to the incessant dripping of the leaky pet-cock/fuel valve, which is also a suspect situation for a possible faulty signal.