I was cleaning my bike this afternoon and after taking the fairings off noticed a reservoir of oil in the bottom inside of the fairing. After a very small investigation I found this is coming from the manifolds.

I had a 2009 Aprilia RS125 before I owned the NSR so I know two strokes leak from the manifold but this really is taking the p*ss! lol. I took one of the pipes off and there is no gasket (HRC Pro Pipes) and the springs aren't as tight as I would like; theres a bit of play (about 2-3mm) between the manifold and where the pipe slips on.

Two questions. 1. Should these pipes have a gasket or at least some gasket seal?
2. Should I replace the springs to close the gap up or can I place gasket seal around it?

On another note I managed to get hold of an MC21 flywheel & stator (thanks to Gecko) and a set of HRC coils today and my new PGM (still had the ERR2 message after sorting the TPS) should be here Wednesday next week. Finally getting the parts I want and should all arrive in time for my 3 weeks off work starting end of next week Play time!

the worse pipes i had were swarbricks on my tzr,bloody things were a nightmare my dogfights on the nsr have a rubber seal in the top of the exhaust chamber and fit on the manifolds perfect
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

I've got a bit of OCD when it comes to cleaning my bike! I won't ride it now until I get it fixed because everytime I stop somewhere I'll be checking to see how much oil has built up, I'll probably even resort to carrying a rag round with me to clean the underside up where the oil has leaked through.

Will try to locate some gasket seal this weekend and really go to town on them.

i have the ocd as well mate when it comes to cleaning the bike
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ive seen more tarts than mr kipling

Does anyone know if these TYGA collars will work on the HARC Pro system or if they are strictly for use on TYGA pipes?

http://tyga-performance.com/site/product_info.php?products_id=1830

With the exception of going back to standard bolted honda pipes, you'll never stop the splooge. At best you'll reduce or control it. Aside from running different oil or leaner ratios (careful), you could perhaps wrap a rag around the pipes at the head, changing the rag after every ride.

I think every two stroke owner has accepted the splooge as inevitable. I did try sealing my tyga pipes twice with the high temp orange rtv crap. It didn't help. Despite cleaning the surfaces, applying liberal amounts and waiting 72+ hours. Next time I'll try high temp silicone. Had success with it on four strokes, maybe it's worth a shot? I'll try it next time I need to take the pipes off.

I've heard that there is a chance of reducing the splooge by machining a groove in the pipe and installing a vitron oring. It may help but I doubt it will stop it. I've never seen a two stroke exhaust held on by springs that doesn't dribble sh*t.

Just installed a fresh oring AND sealed a ktm sprung chamber with silicone. If that reduces it I will let you know.

Don't waste your time on the orange sh*t. It doesn't seal. Too much movement in a sprung chamber. That said, the orange sh*t does not even seal my tiger silencers properly (and there isn't any movement there).
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

The o-ring seal type headers are the best in my experience.
The Dog Fight pipes on my bike haven't leaked yet. (Touch wood)!
If the o-rings are in good condition and installed properly they shouldn't leak.
My old TZ250A used to leak very slightly even with new seals. This was due to wear on the manifold which was part of the cylinder.
I've had good results with the high temp' silicone sealant. Problem is, it's best on a race engine, as it requires frequent re-application.
I bought some special manifolds from Dan, (Gecko). They're like the Dog Fight headers and Tyga special manifold, matched to the exhaust port. The stub diameter is a standard size though, unlike the Dog Fights, which have a larger diameter stub.
Anyway, the manifolds I got from Dan I had a groove machined into them to accept the HRC waffle seal.
I intend to use some high temp' silicone when using these. I always let the silicone cure overnight before starting the engine if possible.

anonymous.shyster wrote:
Don't waste your time on the orange sh*t. It doesn't seal. Too much movement in a sprung chamber. That said, the orange sh*t does not even seal my tiger silencers properly (and there isn't any movement there).

I use black stuff and that seems to seal very well. You do have to let it cure properly otherwise it doesn't get the elasticity.

I use orange high temp rtv on my Tygas and have no issues with leakage. If the manifolds or exhausts are worn in the mating area it will obviously make it harder to seal.

Might be worth trying new exhaust springs, if they are a bit loose/stretched they will maybe let the exhausts move more and break the seal easier, the rubber grommets in the frame at the exhaust mounting points also wear and let the exhausts move around more than they should, never a bad idea to change these.

Of course you vcould be extra ordinarially lucky and the orange sh*t will work. Buy a lotto ticket instead. You'll be less frustrated at the end of the day and won't be peeling skanky orange spooge off your hands.

Seriously, the orange crap doesn't work. I tried it on unworn, new (not refreshed) cylinders, chambers and springs. Twice. I even had it leak on the end cans which are held very securely to the pipes by three bolts (not much movement there). Splooge is something we have to live with. Not entirely skeptical or cynical so I will say I'll give something that isn't orange a try but only if I had to take the pipes off for other reasons. Hell, even my new ktm with 1,000 kms on it has splooge around the chamber - and that's been fitted at the factory!
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

Sorry mate but, I've had good results with the orange high temp' silicone too. Only time I had it leak was when I ran the bike before it had cured.
Not trying to shout you down but maybe you had a bad batch tube or just bad luck?
I've used all types of rtv silicone over the years, generally stuff that came my way free of charge. It all worked to some degree.

Try the black high temp silicone.

People will appear and try to prove you and your experience as wrong as soon as you claim a product doesn't work that worked for a friend of a friend of theirs. They're outliers. Just the law of the universe at work - people will claim talking to invisible dead people helps them get a car park if you look hard enough. Just as people will claim the orange sh*t works or the Homeopathic remedy of dilute water cured them.
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

I use an orange sealant on all my two strokes (and about to try it on a 4 stroke too) which have sprung together pipes/mufflers, and it doesn't leak. It specifically says exhaust sealant on it though (smells like salt n vinegar chips), I'll have a look at it... maybe it's not a silicone sealant, but could explain the confusion?

Your description of the orange gunk is very apt. It DOES smell like salt and vinegar chips! Glad all these people are popping by to tell me how much success they've had with the crap. All I can say is kudos.

I've only tried applying it liberally to both surfaces, having cleaned them completely of all grease, splooge and old blown orange crap from the last unsuccessful application. New heads, new pipes, new springs. Waited longer than 72 hours or whatever the tube says. It blew out. Why? If anybody suggests I'm doing it wrong I'll break yer arm!

Fact is the sprung exhausts vibrate and flex. The pipes on the nsr aren't held ridgidly to the motor and frame. There is movement, especially if you aren't running rear hangers. I would suspect that people having all this luck are running them except I know most people ditch them so I don't believe they are. Sure, you might get a seal happening, but hit a bump or bump the end of the cans with your leg when you get on the bike and you'll notice the lever action will break the seal at the head as the springs flex.

I only recommend trying silicone instead as I have had success with it plugging holes in car mufflers! It''s totally different but I imagine the silicone would take more flexing before breaking the seal and you can apply thicker amounts of it.
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MC21 Honda NSR250. TYGA 300 conversion.

I bought a couple of RS/RGV manifold O rings from TYGA. I'm hoping with them installed between the collar and the exhaust with a bit of gunk too it should solve the problem.