You can get a new PGM and card for about £250 secondhand.
If it's a track bike might be better to run the MC21 PGM3, loom, clocks and flywheel. That'll probably cost about the same as another PGM4. but you will get full power (55bhp) rather than the 40bhp the std card punts out.
Yep, the best fix is a PGM-II or PGM-III, it's loom and the correct flywheel (or an offset woodruff key), some clocks, an ignition barrel (and somewhere to put it, or mod the loom to remove it) and the temp sender needs to be from an mc18 or mc21 (or nearly any other Honda, it's the mc28 that's odd).
The PGM-II will be slightly cheaper but you'll have to splice some wires and plugs, it's not tough though;
note the wires for the reg/rec still not tidied up, and the loom lying across the yoke, this is first fit after my PGM-IV melted.
It's mounted on a Tyga subframe.
A (wirespliced) PGM-II or III, some pipes and a setup will see 60bhp+, if it doesn't you'll be wanting a top end rebuild.
Unless you're very lucky finding an HRC carded PGM-IV for not much money that's by far the best option for a track bike, the stock card isn't a good plan for a trackbike.
Or you could try getting a replacement card programmed for your PGM-IV (see the sticky thread) and hope the PGM is OK. _________________ Please do not PM me technical questions, if you can't find it on the Forum start a thread
Check the bikes details at http://www.carjam.co.nz/
You will need to register, but it's free and at the very least you can check VIN number.
If the bike doesn't even have a VIN number it is likely stolen.
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