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Some progress on my R5K


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Dmitry
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Some progress on my R5K

Sun Aug 26, 2012 9:58 pm » Post: #1 » Download Post

Been slowly picking away at it for a while and realized that it's been over 18 month since I got it, it spent at least 6 month on the lift and nothing got done... summer os almost over and I ned to have a deadline, let's say next month, Rice-O-Rama seems like a good place to bring the bike, I have taken my RG in the past but time for change and that means time for action.

in past week I have removed stripped and repainted most of the parts, brackets etc, vaporblasted everything that does not get painted



rims gor fresh coat of white powder and new rubber



"updated" top yoke





new bearings and fresh coat of paint on a yoke and radiator guard


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Dmitry
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Sun Aug 26, 2012 10:05 pm » Post: #2 » Download Post

close up of the top yoke, was gonna insert in the post above but I can't seem to locate "EDIT" button



silencers will take some work to restore





now the question it to leave it as it (VaporBlasted) or polish



one down, one to go


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Dmitry
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Sun Aug 26, 2012 10:23 pm » Post: #3 » Download Post

Forks are polished and built up with NC30 uppers and cartridges, front end almost done. Fresh PowderCoat and rubber for front wheel as well



one major issue left to solve, besides the shock. Some people just can't comprehend the idea of left hand thread, now I got to figure out the way to extract it...



Rear shock will be here next week, decided to abandon the '94 CBR600 unit that I have, it needs rebuild and I can buy another decent used one for less than cost of parts needed.

1994 CBR600 F2 is 290 mm
95-96 CBR600 F3 is 289mm
97-98 CBR600F3 is 287mm

all rated for 800 pound spring by Ohlins which is 14.25 kg,
when I tested stock spring from 1994 F2 shock came up with 13.7 kg rate and spring that came off my R5K was 12.5KG

Figured best shot is later model 97-98 bike, it might be a lower mileage shock and being the shorter of them all it should work best with stock 18" wheel and HRC linkage plates that I have remade
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greggo
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Sun Aug 26, 2012 11:41 pm » Post: #4 » Download Post

Yeah, i've come across the left handed thread on many things. Surely there is a point where people have to ask themselves why its not getting any easier and coming off....but no.

What did you use on the silencers? That's a remarkable result!

I've got two sets of MC21 std silencers I was going to clean out and restore then see if anyone wants them. Between them at least one of them should make an immaculate set. but they have similar rash to yours.

Love the vapour blasting results.
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Dmitry
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Mon Aug 27, 2012 5:34 am » Post: #5 » Download Post

I used a file first and then a small belt sander, it's only about an 1" wide (25mm), constantly rotating the can so there are no flat spots, also I used the unsupported part of the belt so it would not be as flat, slight deflection of the belt helps to soften the cut. Took a while and I would not to do a dozen of them, but doing one was enjoyable. After beltsanding, then some more hand sanding I vaporblasted it, helps when you have one handy



This is another one I reground with belt sander and file, was pretty bad, still needs work, in the long run it was probably cheaper to buy a new one but I was on the roll.



Came in today to work on front end, was going to touch up the rotors, few paint chips were quite an eye sore, but didn't like the way it came out so I removed them, stripped old paint and re-painted them, masking was a pain but in the end pretty nice result



Front end is done now, everything is tight and brakes bled. On to the rest of the bike. Cooling system is filled with "stop-leak" sludge, I can see that water pump was leaking but there is also a trail or rust from the base of the rear cylinder, looks like water hose is leaking, got to figure out where to source the hose and hope that I don't need to pull barrels.
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Dmitry
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Wed Aug 29, 2012 12:54 pm » Post: #6 » Download Post

already posted this in Discussion forum, but just to keep track, some temporary setbacks

Front Cylinder





Rear Cylinder


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kneewall49
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Fri Aug 31, 2012 8:33 am » Post: #7 » Download Post

Nice work! Keep those pics and experiences coming. I'm doing the same on two 18's, I've decidede to do them simultaneiuosly to save time and money.

My end cans weight a ton. Someone suggest I soak them in peertol to see if they will lighten up and also sound a little quiter, very loud at present.

Neil
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Dmitry
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Fri Aug 31, 2012 11:31 pm » Post: #8 » Download Post

AT the shop till 2 AM last night cleaning, blasting, scrubbing, filing down huge gouges left on the cylinder deck by some asshole with a screwdriver...

Parts in need of repair were picked up by a machinist and probably being fixed as I type, waiting for a call that they all done.... any minute now.... waiting.... waiting...

meanwhile some photos

water jacket clogged solid with stop-leak turds



about to get vaporblasted



half done, no trick lighting, direct sunlight, shadow is going straight down



another half blasted part, no paint, just CLEAN!!


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Dmitry
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Sun Sep 02, 2012 5:57 am » Post: #9 » Download Post

No progress on the water fittings, it's a holiday weekend here in The Colonies so I don't expect anything till Tuesday, meanwhile there's lot's of fit and finish work ahead to get the Chinese plastics fitted. Today I managed to get the tail installed, lot's of filing and drilling but in the end pretty happy with results







Also picked up some Lye and soaked the pipes, pretty nasty process...
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Dmitry
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Mon Sep 03, 2012 6:09 pm » Post: #10 » Download Post

Some progress today, realized that I will need to find some hardware.

China-Junk bodywork needs some "adjustments" but seems to fit






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Dmitry
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Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:21 am » Post: #11 » Download Post

finally cylinders came back with new water fittings pressed in, still missing rear head, but I already installed the cylinders.



also installed clutch cover, shock, plastic undertail, harness, battery etc...



gonna need some header-wrap: pipes come so close to lower bodywork I'm pretty sure the China-Junk is gonna melt






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Andy
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Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:18 am » Post: #12 » Download Post

You'd probably do better to get some heat reflecting foil, like the OEM bodywork uses, as wrapping the headers on a 2-stroke can often have undesired, or at least unexpected results.
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Dmitry
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Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:39 pm » Post: #13 » Download Post

Thanks Andy! Will get some stick-on insulation ordered

just came back from Honda dealer, $80 got me some gear oil, coolant and few fasteners, adds up quick!



picked up some hoses from auto parts store, got one matched up, few more to go


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Dmitry
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Thu Sep 06, 2012 2:30 am » Post: #14 » Download Post

figured posting pictures with part numbers might help someone some day...



seat cowl screws were not available form American Honda, had to clean up the ones I have



hammered them flat then sanded and polished, could be better but I have not got all day


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joeys boy

 
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Nice to see

Fri Sep 07, 2012 11:54 am » Post: #15 » Download Post

Well doen its nice to see you have restorded must things rather than replaced lookes BANG ON! Very Happy
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